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Question DetailsAsked on 8/4/2016

Base board installation in Aurora cost per foot?

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The baseboard material itself can run $0.15-10.00/LF for stock items (from cheapest plastic strip or MDF to fanciest products), and up to $25-50/LF for custom baseboard profiles and exotic materials like tropical hardwoods or stone or stainless shapes, and up to $50-100/LF range for custom embossed or carved baseboard.


For normal wood/MDF/vinyl baseboard installation (remembering this cost includes all the tools to do the work) can run commonly $1-1.50/LF for vinyl strip, more like $1.50-3/LF ($1.50-2/LF common for multi-room jobs involving a couple hundred lineal feet or more) for wood and wood-like products when doing an entire house or large rooms, though it can get into the $3-5/LF range if there are a lot corners needing mitering like in some kitchens or if corners are badly out of square or the walls are not vertical at the bottom of the drywall (i.e. the bottom of the drywall cups under or out at the bottom). Also commonly in the $3-6/LF range if the vendor is also pre-finishing the product before installation and touching up cuts afterwards, which is a very good idea in most cases.


For tile/stone commonly more in the $10-30/LF range, with the lower end being for mastic-adhered "glued on" strip products directly on drywall, the mid to higher range for individual or mosaic tile or strip with traditional thinset application and/or requiring a lot of cuts.


And unless using a Handyman (who may or may not do a decent job depending on his skill set), probably about $150-250 minimum charge by a Carpenter - Woodworking (or Ceramic Tile contractor if tile or stone). Some FLooring companies do this work also - especially with standard nailable products when done as part of a flooring job.


If having put in a carpeted room, be sure to specify if you want it "tight to the carpet" or "carpet-top height". The former presses down on the carpet to conceal the fact the carpet runs in under it but also makes it so replacing the carpet basically requires removing the baseboard to do so. Carpet-top installation (actually usually slightly embedded into the carpet pile) makes it obvious the carpet runs in under it (or at least the carpet should run in under except sometimes with edge-finished area carpets/rugs or tile/stone baseboards) but generally allows the carpet to be pulled off the nailing strip and new carpet tucked in under the baseboard when needed without removing the baseboards.


"Hard strip" baseboard like tile or stone is also very commonly brought right down to the floor surface (which usually will also be of tile or stone or finished concrete), with the carpeting terminated at its face and zero tuck-under - usually with the carpet having no tack strip around the edge - just double sided mounting tape where put down over a hard surface.


Of course, it should be emphasized that the baseboard should be level regardless of where it sits - but you need to consider what happens at the transition between carpeted and hard-surfaced floors if the baseboard is not tight down against a hard floor surface or subfloor, because it will usually be sitting higher if on top of carpeting than on top of an adjacent surface like sheet flooring, so you need to discuss how the transition will be done - a slight trending down of the baseboard from level (meaning a bit of bottom cutting) as it approaches the hard surface floor area, bottom trimming of all the baseboard when over carpet, different baseboard or profile for carpeted versus sheet surfaces, etc. Usually not a big issue between stone or tile or laminate/engineered/hardwood and carpet because the total thickness is similar - the obvious issues arise where there is a straight run along a wall which is bordered partly by carpet and partly by sheet flooring.


One other consideration in the scope of work - if a glued-on product, what the top edge contact with the wall treatment will be - because without paintable caulking there will usually be small gaps (with rigid products) which will accumulate dirt. But you need to consider if you want minimal joint caulking, or a rounded caulk interface, or a top treatment like quarter round or cove or bullnose or such.


On nailed-on trim - be sure to specify in scope whether nail holes are to be filled and stained to match (or using generic near-match wood dough), because the rather sloppy standard these days for probably most contractors is to leave the nail holes open. If that is your case, normally it looks better to leave the nails as flush as possible rather than recessed - though that makes it more work to fill the holes later on if desired. It is also possible to use prefinished trim nails (commonly available in white, black, brown, beige) that sit flush with the surface to blend in better - but that is hand rather than nailgun nailing so labor cost goes up probably a buck or two per LF.

Answered 2 years ago by LCD




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