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Question DetailsAsked on 6/13/2011

Basement flooding

We need to take some additional steps to deal with water in our basement. We've had new gutters installed to direct rainwater away, and run a dehumidifier, but still have seepage through a couple of walls. We're worried about our walls being degraded. Should we go with a company that offers this service, or should we tackle it ourselves? What products or fixes should we consider?

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2 Answers

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SuEllen, it sounds like you’ve made steps in the right direction! You should definitely consult a professional to come out and assess your specific situation and the cause of the leaks. We always recommend getting several estimates before hiring anyone. Also, here is some info on basement waterproofing http://bit.ly/cp41HE and foundation repair http://bit.ly/cioKKL

Answered 7 years ago by Angie's List

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Suellen, Some important things to consider in your case. It is critical that if interior drainage is installed, assuming you have walls with a normal footing configuration, it be installed correctly. I do not believe PVC pipe should be installed as it does not provide enough access for flushports to be installed and clogging is a issue. A drainage type tubing designed for basement drainage has been tested in the worst conditions and has a proven track record of success. Trust me when I tell you this, you do NOT want to have to re-open the floor because of a clogged system once this is completed. Flushports should be in every corner of the basement and in the center of each wall. Aproper flush port should be flush with the floor and allow for system flushing. Preferably large enough to put a small hand into.
**important** The drainage MUST be installed in FRONT of the footer, not on top. Drainage installed on top of the footer cannot pitch to the pump and usually only has 1 inch or so of concrete in the restoration process. This causes the concrete to all crack and is of poor practice when it comes to resoration. Companies want you to believe that the top of the footer is "cleaner" and resists clogging. Don't fall for it. It is simply easier for the contractor to install. No drainage should have a backing that allows ANY soil gas to escape into the basement. In other words the basement should be restored in such a fashion that it will not allow moisture or radon gas from under the slab to escape.
**important** It is critical that the drainage be installed with erosion fabric matched to the soils and drainage properly installed as to not affect the structural integrity of the home. Proper drainage stone must be installed. This is critical and why you should consult with qualified personel before attempting on your own.
My company receives calls from a homeowner who's foundation has been damaged by a unskilled or unknowing contractor. Structural integrity MUST come first and formost. When choosing a pump to discharge the water, don't fall for the 1 year warranty pumps. They WILL fail. When they do, the basement floods and a super expensive service call is now going to happen to replace a substandard outdated pump. Only choose a pump that has a primary switch and a back up switch. Second to this are pumps with a BCAP switch. These are microprocessor controlled. Old mechanical switch pumps should be avoided at all cost.
I wish you the best in basement Health! www.basementhealth.org is a wonderful site.

Source: www.greenmountainbasementsolutions.com

Answered 7 years ago by vermontguy




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