No insult meant to JGHamm, but connecting the exterior foundation french drain through the foundation wall to the interior sump pump is absolutely the WRONG way to do it - you should NEVER connect the outside drainage system to the inside.
He was absoloutely right about keeping the source of water away from the foundation in the first place - with surface slope, impervious layer (asphalt, concrete, underground liner) near the house if you have very permeable soil, controlling roof drainage and getting it away from the house, etc.
The intent is to keep the water outside the foundation area - by waterproofing the foundation walls and if necessary with drainage (french drain) at the base of the foundation, which if a drain is necessary should be free-draining to the open surface at at least two locations (in case one gets blocked or freezes) if feasible, otherwise it may require a wetwell OUTSIDE a bit away from the house, with an outdoor service sump pump discharging at an appropriate location well away from the house.
The LAST thing you want is a connection of a large water source into your basement, which is what you have if you connect to the outside perimeter drain. Your sump pump and interior sub-slab drain system should only be asked to remove the little amount of water that makes it to the bottom of the slab, not the entire perimeter drain flow.
On the backfill around the house - the old school is to use sand against the house to protect the sprayed asphaltic membrane or stick-and-peel bitumastic membrane. Far better is to continue the waterproofing down to the bottom of the footer (I like membrane far more than sprayed - far thicker and more impervious), AND extend a foot or two in a narrow trench BELOW the footing with bitumastic membrane, to cut off water from short-circuiting under the footer into the interior slab area. This has to be applied in short dection to avoid weakening the foundation bearing capacity, and heavily compacted with backfill. Then apply 2 inch or thicker styrofoam insulation board with bitumastic caulk or spray-on tar to protect the membrane, and also provide insulation to the wall to reduce interior sweating. If the styrofoam sheets are caulked at the joints that also provides another layer of moisture barrier. To really reduce sweating onthe interior surface, a double layer of 2" closed-cell styrofoam with all joints offset really makes a tremendous difference. Then backfill with compacted structural fill, topped off with 6-12 inches of highly compacted material with enough fines (or cement) so it becomes essentially impervious after placement, of course sloped away from the house. Using compacted structural backfill limits water infiltration along the foundation, rather than the "pooling" that occurs if you use sand or gravel, which basically puts your house in a swimming pool reservoir of water, which is inviting leakage through the foundation.
In really difficult situations where a house is basically sitting in a swamp or low spot and there is no way to free-surface drain the french drain, to prevent the wet well from having to handle too much water you can put heavy-duty HDPE pond liner suspended on the outer face of the trench as you backfill, so there is a barrier to the water even getting to the french drain in the first place through the surrounding soil, and the drain only handles what falls directly on the few feet of fill around the foundation, and what gets to the french drain at the bottom of the foundation wall through groundwater flow at depth.