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Question DetailsAsked on 5/13/2016

Cost of placing a stem wall for 28 x 60 mobile home on site for 20 years with crawl space already

Wanting cinder blocks placed within the double wide, with some vents, crawl space already exist. Need estimate for cost. As well as who to call.

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Depends of course on accessibility, how yucky it is under there (that is an official contractor term, of course), how deep the excavation for the footer has to go to bear on good material and so forth, but generally I would estimate about $15-20/SF for a stemwall (down the center at the junction of the double-wide), or about $12-16/SF for perimeter wall under the edge of the frame.


Make sure the vents are insect screened - and to prevent rodent entry I would require hardware cloth, not window screening - because bucktoothed rodents like squirrels and racoons can easily chew through window screening. The slightly larger insect screening made from hardware cloth (not a cloth - is actually a galvanized welded wire mesh) also provides a lot better ventilation than window screening or eave vent rollout screening.


Two types of contractors in Search the List who do this would be Foundation Repair (especially if you want the trailer levelled at the same time) and Masonry. Some House Moving and Trailer Moving (latter not an AL category) contractors also do masonry block foundations under trailers and manufactured homes - which from the width yours sounds like.


Be sure drainage is properly handled too - either be sure the fill underneath is higher than surrounding area, that there is drainage ditch around the trailer and leading away from it, or that the footer is deep enough to prevent erosion if expected to act as a runoff diversion dike. You do NOT want a swamp forming under the trailer after it is enclosed by the block - will go stagnant and stinky quite quickly.


You should also decide how you want this fastened at the top - just running a mortar bed up under the frame is not the best solution. Depends partly on whether there is any chance it will ever see a buildup of flood water or mudflow against it in flood events or hurricane/tornado winds, which of course means needs good anchoring at the top. Ways I have seen it done include welding pieces of rebar to the frame extending down into the grout, cutting slots inthe top blocks so they fit around the bottom edge of the frame sort of like a hand grasping, or bolting treated sill pieces under the frame which have anchor bolts extending down into the mortar - basically a normal house foundation sill with anchro bolts but turned upside down. There is also a trailer parts company I don't recall the name of that makes wiggly rebar strips that clamp onto the frame and axtend down to embed in the mortar bed.


Consider also, when selecting anchoring method, whether this home ever likely to be moved in the future and reused (as opposed to junked) because you would want a decently removeable foundation anchor in that case. Also, be sure you do not eliminate accessibility to your wind tiedown anchors to be able to adjust them if necessary.

Answered 2 years ago by LCD




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