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Question DetailsAsked on 5/19/2017

Cost of replacing hidden heating element on electric stove

This is on an LG electric stove about 5 years old. The broil option works. When I attempt to bake, the temperature reading goes only up to 325, however, the actual oven temp is maybe 200 if that. If this is due to a faulty heating element, it's hidden not exposed. I'm wondering how much the estimate would cost to fix if you think this is the problem. Thanks.

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OK - typical range the oven element (the bottom one or pair, on raised brackets in the bottom of the oven) can run the temp up to from about 350-450 degrees - if you go above that (commonly to 450 or rarely to 500-550 degrees max with some brands) some brands use the overhead (broil) coil intermittently along with the baking coil as well to get the temp that high. And of course the overhead "broil" coil is also used in the broil setting to cook exposed meat and such, sort of like a grill.


If the bottom coil(s) are heating up red hot along their entire length (except for an inch or so where they come out of the back wall) then your thermostatic control is bad - usually the probe which is typically about $25-50 (plus typically $75-100 service call charge by an Appliance Repair - Large technician if you don't DIY) - the thermostatic control board in electronic ranges can run from $75 to over $300 depending on brand, if that is what has gone bad.


If the bottom coil(s) have dark section in their length when the oven is heating, then part of the coil or one of two coils is burned out - run from about $10-35 commonly, plus service call again if you don't DIY.


On the thermostat probe - usually requires disconnecting the range and pulling ti out, taking back cover out, unplugging connector on old one and pushing it through a holein the back of the oven, then unhooking the old probe, putting new one in, plugging it in, and replacing the rock wool insulation over the hole. Coil similar in some models, in others you can plug it is totally from inside the oven - no pulling the range out at all. Each is probably about a 3-4 complexity on a 10 point DIY scale - but does require a certain level of comfort with unplugging and doing minor electrical plugin work, which may people do not have so this is usually done by an appliance repair tech. Be sure to have make and model number when you call, and be ready to tell whether coils are getting red or only partly, etc.

Answered 1 year ago by LCD

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Oops - I forgot to answer the "hidden element" part of your question - with the exception of microwave elements (in microwaves, not range ovens) you would not have "hidden" elements (other than perhaps under a readily removeable drip pan under the bottom rack in some ovens) because the heat has to get from the element to the oven, and a major portion of that heat is transferred by radiation - so the element has to have clear "line of sight" to all the oven and pans in the oven to provide relatively even heating - if an element was concealed under a sheet metal cover or such the heating would be very uneven (which is what happens if a drip pan is put above the bottom elements - more of the heat goes around the sides and the top of the oven get significantly hotter than the bottom part, potentially causing uneven heating.


I know when I was growing up there was a drip pan for the bottom which was used when broiling to keep the bottom elements and bottom of the oven cleaner (before the days of self-cleaning ovens) - but that had to be removed for conventional oven use with the bottom elements for baking.


Some of the newer convection ovens might use hidden elements, with the circulating airflow carrying the heat throughout the oven.


Answered 1 year ago by LCD




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