This just popped up as a recent question, though it looks like the question is a half year old. Don't know if you have solved your problem, but a couple of thoughts below if not. Sounds like the basic problem is you got the wrong material - "crush and run" is just a colloquialism for "crushed pit run", which is just material fromthe quarry or pit that has been crushed to provide sharp edges (which reduces the "washiness" and "squishy" feweling of rounded gravel, with oversize removed. Unfortunately, all the fines in the pit run as well as the fines from the crushing are left in it, so you commonly get a lot of mud and dust. 3/4" minus piut crush can be OK if the source material is sound bedrock, but if sourced from river gravel or a soft rock the fines can be excessive. The proper product would have been a product commonly called a "3/4 crushed cut" or "3/4-40 crush", meaning a 3/4" minus product that has been cut off with a screen at a fine size like #40 sieve (roughly 1/64"), so there are less than about 5 percent fines in the delivered product - the point where mud and dust generally becomes really noticeable.
However, you obviously are stuck with what you have, and an overlay of other materiall would have to be over 2 inches thick to have any effect, so where do you go from here:
1) there are commercial chemical dust suppressants such as magnusium cloride and calcium cloride that can be used, though their life is limited. (Google "road dust suppressant" for more info). An asphalt paving or excavation contractor should be able to apply one as they commonly use this on dusty construction sites, or they will know who can. Your drive is probably too big to do yourself, from the sounds of it.
2) the common solution is hot oiling the drive - a sprayed oil coating. This cannot be driven on for 1-2 days after application though you should not park on it for a week to avoid sticking to the tires, and should only be applied in dry conditions with temperatures above about 60 degrees. Binds the particles and dust with oil.
3) an upgrade to the oiling method is chip sealing - where a boiling hot tar emulsion solution is sprayed on the crushed rock, followed by spreading a thin layer of rock chips. Makes an asphalt-looking surface, but unless the underlying material is very well compacted and the right type of material, will not last more than a couple of years at most before severe cracking. Should only be applied in dry conditions with temperatures above about 50 degrees. Can be driven on about an hour after placement, though should not park on it for a week.
Search Angie's List for names and reviews of Paving or Driveway Contractors.