Ask Your Question

Angie's List Answers is the trusted spot to ask home improvement and health questions and get answers from service companies, health providers and consumers. For ratings and reviews on companies in your area, search Angie's List.

 
 
or
Submit
Top 30 Days Experts
Rank Leader Points*
1 kstreett 240
2 Guest_9020487 110
3 Guest_9190926 105
4 GoldenKid 100
5 ahowell 95
6 KnowledgeBase 95
7 skbloom 80
8 Guest_98024861 70
9 Guest_9311297 70
10 Guest_9400529 70

*Updates every 4 hours

Browse Projects By Category

Question DetailsAsked on 12/2/2015

Downstair's Fisher Double Hung window dripping water from top right corner only during heavy rain.

Downstair's Fisher Double Hung Aluminum Builder Grade Window dripping water from top right corner only during heavy rain. Water seems to be streaming down to the downstairs window from the upstairs window I believe even though there is only inside window frame sheetrock damage at the downstairs window and nothing else. The upstairs window which is also a fisher double hung builder grade aluminum window seems to be pooling water on the bottom that is noticeable when you lift the window open. It appears to be coming through bottom window frame area of the upper floor window or "Meeting Rails" part of the upstairs window. I wonder if some rubber weather sealing would fix this?

Do you have the same question? Follow this Question


3 Answers

0
Votes

Not familiar with Fisher windows - on the web I only found a Fisher Window from New Zealand, but they don't do double hungs, so don't know what your windows are built like.


If coming from top corner (inside the house) would definitely be either a bottom window TOP flashing failure, or more commonly weepage in the wall from the window above, as you say.


Easy way to tell - get a $5-7 probe-type plant moisture meter (good for your house plants too), and sneak in around or pull loose the top piece of inside trim to you can poke the probe into the wall insulation to check if wet an inch or two ABOVE the window. if so, almost certainly from above if fiberglass insulation - if cellulose or blue jean material or such, can wick a foot or more UP into the wall so you have to poke a hole (about 1/8") near the ceiling in that case. Or poke a bigger hole in the drywall and use your finger to check for wetness above the window.


If you take the top trim piece off, you might also be able to see if you are getting water dripping down inside the wall, or maybe even see daylight coming through above the frame on one of the windows.


Fix would be to check for loose or damaged flashing or missing caulk around the applicable (or both) windows - commonly good caulking and adding drip cap (flashing that hangs over the top of the window and directs water away from and over the top of the window frame) will take care of it, though if the flashing job was poorly done sometimes there is no solution but redoing the top flashing and dripcap and caulk.


Clearly a Window contractor (Search the List category) is probably best qualified for this, but getting them out for a minor repair if not warranty work can be tough, so you may end up with a handyman - who's work and solution could be anything from terrible to great.

====

On the pooling - a weatherstrip is highly unlikely to handle this. If it is failed window glazing - the sealant around the glass itself, then a good long-life silicone caulk applied with a very small tip opening should be able to fix with acceptable looks- should bond to both the frame and the glass, covering the junction. Otherwise, weatherstripping around the sash where it meets the frame, unless fixing existing factory seal strip, may not work - just not watertight by its very nature and because the window has to move. Sometimes putting a rub-edge weatherstrip on the frame like shownn in the link below so it covers the edge of and rubs against the sash as it moves works, if this is primarily a blowing rain situation - but generally just reduces the infiltration, not totally fixes it. (For this type, at the sides it would mount on the outer frame, for top and bottom on the sash itself - top of outer, bottom of inner respectively- so the flap comes into contact with the outer frame when closed. Will slightly limit the distance the sashes open. I am showing a link to the garage door version so you can clearly see the flexible flap - comes in smaller size too for windows and doors, and is also aailable in sticky-back to avoid having to screw into the metal window frame - though I would use a stronger permanent adhesive for this application.


http://www.amazon.com/M-D-Building-Pr...


Obviously, if the problem is found to be in the window unit itself rather than on the exterior flashing/caulk, then depending on when installed might be a warranty item.

==

You said you also have pooling in the bottom track area - the sill or apron (bottom frame piece on outside) should slope down away from the window, and the track should have bottom gaps or weepholes through the outer rail of the track to drain water running off the windows into the track. Weep holes may drain right onto the sill, or may go through passages in the metal frame itself and come out under the sill. Check the inlet is cleared, and if a passage try running a long pipe cleaner in there to clear out any gunk. If a defined passage that might work - but in many cases the entire hollow sill piece is the passageway, so then you have to check on the outside for weep holes on the underside of the sill piece. Many times installers see the outlet weep holes and cualk them thinking they are helping matters, and sometimes the water shield is places so the water goes inward along the water shield rather than dropping outside the siding.


Sometimes you are just unable to fix the leak even if you get the weepholes to drain - because the installer or factory forgot to seal up the openings in the end of the bottom sill piece so it runs right out into the rough opening and if the rough opening was not totally sealed with wataer shield, then into the wall.


Of course, check also to be sure the window is put in right side out. Aside from the fact new windows have stickers or labels or markings showing THIS SIDE OUT or such for the installers (amazing how many installers can't or don't read) - the sloping sill should be on the outside (and at bottom - yes windows do get put in upside down), and the outside sash (moving window unit) should be on the top and the inside one on the bottom when closed, so water drips off the top sash frame onto the sill rather than down onto the top of the bottom sash. Of course, any factory installed hardware would be on the wrong side or upside down if the window were installed upside down or backwards. [Do NOT take the lettering on glass as indication of up or down - it comes turned every which way]. IF being installed wrong way is what is wrong, then there may not much you can do other than put a protective awning or shed roof over the window to keep rain off it, install permanent outside very fine screening or sunblock mesh to block the rain from getting to the window, put up stormm window outside it, or have the window taken out and reversed.

Answered 3 years ago by LCD

0
Votes

It seems to be actually coming from the bottom window at the top. I found out today it is not coming from the top window. We do have an outdoor porch covering which has roof shingles that might be leaking.

Answered 3 years ago by apatel

0
Votes

Oh - then probably time to work from top down, trying to find leak source in attic or eaves area, then see if running down inside the wall, or if under or on the siding and in at the top of the window.


As previously stated, soil moisture probe or finger in wall near top would detect water in the insulation pretty easy.


Attic leaks commonly, if there is vapor barrier between the ceiling drywall and the attic floor joists, accumulate attic area roof leaks on top of the vapor barrier and it flows over it to a drain point - a penetration like a vent duct or wiring, or at a wall where it will commonly run down into the wall. If it is running down the inside of the outer wall surface, with many types of siding it will not show uip till it hits an opening in the wall (window, door, etc) or sometimes go all the way down and out the bottom of the sheathing, sometimes without staining the inside drywall, or not until it hits the bottom of the top floor. If it leaks into the wall along the inside surface you generlaly get staining right st the top of the wall and commonly on the edge of the ceiling too - so lacking that, you might be looking at water down the inside of the siding.


Another thing that is common on roofs with about 3:12 or 4:12 or steeper slopes - condensation or melted attic frost (in cooler to cold weather obviously) or a roof leak running down the bottom of the sheathing or along the bottom of the rafters, holding on by capillary action, then dripping off onto the top of the wall when the drips hit the bug screening (if following underside of sheathing) or the wall (if flowing on bottom of joists), then down into the wall or down the outside of either face from there.


If you are not able to investigate yourself, then Roofer sounds like a possible vendor choice, since it sounds like you are pretty sure this is not a plumbing leak. (On outside wall normally would not be unless you have hot water baseboard heating, in which case an upstairs baseboard pipe leak could pop up at a window on the floor below. Generally, a plumbing leak is pretty easy to detect with a $10-15 stethoscope (box store or pharmacy) moved around on the wall over where the leak is popping up.

Answered 3 years ago by LCD




Related Questions


Terms Of Use
|
Privacy Policy