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Question DetailsAsked on 11/26/2017

HOW MUCH DO IT COST FOR SOMEONE TO HOOK UP A GAS DRYER IN THE PONTIAC MICHIGAN AREA

I HAVE EVERYTHING FOR IT TO BE HOOK UP A TURN OFF VALVE IS ON THE GAS LINE

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3 Answers

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Answered 11 months ago by LCD

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If the shutoff valve is legal (there was a code change a few years ago making many of the old cylinder-types illegal because of a tendency to leak), then a Handyman or Appliance Repair - Large tech could install it. BUT - because of the possibility the gas valve needs replacing (only a 2 minute job and about $15 for the part) I would call a Plumber to do the hookup. This assumes you have the 120V standard power outlet for the dryer controls/motor, and the dryer vent already installed in the floor/wall to the outdoors. Most plumbers carry the 3" or 4" (most common) ducting necessary for hookup of the dryer to the vent in their truck.

My recommendation is to always use rigid galvanized steel (not aluminum) metal, not flex, if at all possible. MUCH less chance of clogging with lint, but sometimes a flex piece from dryer to vent pipe is necessary to be able to get the dryer back into place with the vent hooked up, if there is no lateral clearance to reach in behind and hook up the rigid ducting while pushing the dryer back into place. [The reason for galvanized versus aluminum is I have seen dryer vent fires contained by galvanized ducting, but aluminum melted through - best to have as much protection as you can provide at minimal extra cost.]

Answered 11 months ago by LCD

0
Votes

If the shutoff valve is legal (there was a code change a few years ago making many of the old cylinder-types illegal because of a tendency to leak), then a Handyman or Appliance Repair - Large tech could install it. BUT - because of the possibility the gas valve needs replacing (only a 2 minute job and about $15 for the part) I would call a Plumber to do the hookup. This assumes you have the 120V standard power outlet for the dryer controls/motor, and the dryer vent already installed in the floor/wall to the outdoors. Most plumbers carry the 3" or 4" (most common) ducting necessary for hookup of the dryer to the vent in their truck. My recommendation is to always use rigid galvanized steel (not aluminum) metal, not flex, if at all possible. MUCH less chance of clogging with lint, but sometimes a flex piece from dryer to vent pipe is necessary to be able to get the dryer back into place with the vent hooked up, if there is no lateral clearance to reach in behind and hook up the rigid ducting while pushing the dryer back into place. [The reason for galvanized versus aluminum is I have seen dryer vent fires contained by galvanized ducting, but aluminum melted through - best to have as much protection as you can provide at minimal extra cost.]


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Answered 11 months ago by LCD




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