Ask Your Question

Angie's List Answers is the trusted spot to ask home improvement and health questions and get answers from service companies, health providers and consumers. For ratings and reviews on companies in your area, search Angie's List.

 
 
or
Submit
Top 30 Days Experts
Rank Leader Points*
1 kstreett 240
2 Guest_9020487 110
3 Guest_9190926 105
4 GoldenKid 100
5 ahowell 95
6 KnowledgeBase 95
7 skbloom 80
8 Guest_98024861 70
9 Guest_9311297 70
10 Guest_9400529 70

*Updates every 4 hours

Browse Projects By Category

Question DetailsAsked on 11/12/2016

HOW MUCH SHOULD IT COST TO TEAR OUT OLD LINOLEUM AND INSTALL NEW LINOLEUM IN COLUMBIA MO

ITS A 30 SQ FT BATHROOM WITH ONLY TEAR OUT PREP AND INSTALL

Do you have the same question? Follow this Question


1 Answer

0
Votes

Depends on whether the subfloor needs any levelling or rotted plywood removal work, whether the linoleum is going in under the toilet or stopping at the perimeter (which adds around $100 if the toilet needs to be removed and replaced), whether the linoleum is glued down or not and what type of glue and how well it is holding, what grade of new product you are using (varies from about $1.00/SF to over $5.00/SF just for the materials) - and a MAJOR cost factor (can double or triple the cost of a job this size if well glued down) is whether the existing linoleum or the glue (or both) have the dangerous type of asbestos.


Typically in the $5/SF range for larger jobs, up to about $10-13/SF with higher end materials and replacement or levelling of the subfloor sheathing (NOT including any damaged structural members) - much more potentially if asbestos containing.


Note - most sheet flooring products that are not pure vinyl, and many adhesives, contained and STILL contain asbestos - so it is important to have the test run not just for asbestos (as low as $10 or less with mail-in kits) but for the regulated varieties only - more about $50 for a test, which should include both a piece of the flooring AND glue on it to be tested. Many labs will do both for one price - some call that two tests and charge twice.


BTW - my recommendation - go with seamless sheet caulked at the perimeters and under the baseboard in case of flooring, to act as a retention basin - it is amazing how a caulked sheet bathroom floor can (assuming has a 1/4-1/2" door sill or transition strip that is also caulked under the lip on the bathroom side) can change toilet overflow or leakage or chronic wet dripping on the floor from bath or shower from a rapidly deteriorating floor issue to workable cleanup. And to tell the truth, especially in bathroom and kitchen - use 100% sheet vinyl, not linoleum - MUCH more water resistant.


From your other post, sounds like maybe you are a contractor, not a homeowner - in which case of course typical costs matter, but you also have to make sure you are chaging enough to do the job and make a profit, and also (assuming this is not an add-on to existing work at that location which will not add substantially to travel time, runs for materials, mob/demob costs) that the total billing charge is enough to recover your total cost of the job and overheads and profit - which is why many contractors have callout minimums of around $50-125 commonly for handymen, more like $100-200 for small job tradesmen like plumbers and electricians, and commonly $150-250 for many other trades. Othearwise, say it was a simple peel up and replace, 30 SF might run only $125-175 using a normal per-square-footage basis - not enough to pay for your time and mileage and such in getting to the jobsite, making a run to buy materials if not already purchased by the owner (which in and of itself cut your overhead/profit coverage AND total billing right there in one felll swoop), doing the tearout, demo disposal, installation and final cleanup. You can see that billing for maybe 2-3 hours minimum starts to make sense.

Answered 2 years ago by LCD




Related Questions


Terms Of Use
|
Privacy Policy