Ask Your Question

Angie's List Answers is the trusted spot to ask home improvement and health questions and get answers from service companies, health providers and consumers. For ratings and reviews on companies in your area, search Angie's List.

 
 
or
Submit
Top 30 Days Experts
Rank Leader Points*
1 kstreett 240
2 Guest_9020487 110
3 Guest_9190926 105
4 GoldenKid 100
5 ahowell 95
6 KnowledgeBase 95
7 skbloom 80
8 Guest_98024861 70
9 Guest_9311297 70
10 Guest_9400529 70

*Updates every 4 hours

Browse Projects By Category

Question DetailsAsked on 1/29/2018

How much does it cost to bring kitchen water lines to code

Nc

Do you have the same question? Follow this Question


1 Answer

0
Votes

If you have serious issues in the in-wall and in-floor sections, can commonly run into the $500-750 range very quickly NOT including followup drywall repair and repainting. For under-slab or in-slab piping from about double that and on up.


If you mean just a problem under the sink, usually something around $250-300 will sort out a lot of those - assuming it is not unduly cramped under there. Commonly a P-trap or J-trap is improperly plumbed.


One thing you did not mention is WHY you want to bring it up to code - because unless you have illegal cross-connections or backflow possibility from a faucet set down into the sink or such, usually older plumbing that is not up to current code is not an issue. Most existing work in a house (except for a few things like safety railings, handrails, fire and CO alarms) are "grandfathered in" - not required to be upgraded as code requirements change until a major general or system remodel or upgrade is done - commonly one involving at least 50% of the cost of a total replacement of the system or house, at which time they commonly then require it all be brought up to current code. For instance, there are still houses with asbestos piping, and with knob and tube wiring which are legal as is - and do not generally have to be brought up to code until the sewer pipe or electrical (respectively) are more than 50% replaced. They can still be repaired and used. This is for owner-occupied residential buildings generally not over a duplex - larger structures and rental apartment buildings and such have certain upgrades mandated from time to time by various national or state or city codes - commonly for life safety items only like fire/CO alarms, fire doors, lead paint abatement, railings to child-safety standards, etc. That is why you hear about apartment building fire killing large numbers of people - because the code has not been changed to require retrofitting of fire alarms or sprinkler systems in many areas as long as not over half the structure is rebuilt or not over half its value (depending on locale) is spent in upgrades/remodels. There are 300+ year old structures out there still in use (even for rentals in many areas) with essentially negligable compliance with modern building codes, and still legal. This is called "grandfathering".


If this issue came up from a pre-sale buyer's inspection, I would look (and talk to my realtor) about what SPECIFICALLY is not to code. Unless an electrical issue with garbage disposal or such, or a faucet set below top of sink (actually has to be at least 1 inch above rim of sink by code to prevent any possibility of backflow contamination) I would discuss what they want with a plumber and see if you want to accept their request and pay for the work, or tell them their request is not for life-safety issues so you are not going to comply. Of course, how much of their request you agree to do is impacted by the demand for the property (how many other buyers are out there who would not require those changes), how desperate you are for this sale to go through (like if you need the funds quickly to buy a replacement house as part of a job relocation), etc.


These days, a LOT of inspection reports fail to distinguish between the "code violation" or "life and safety" issues, and the "nice to have" or "needs maintenance" issues, so some buyers (knowlingly or innocently) are asking for remediation of maintenance or wear-and-tear conditions which would be normal to a house of that specific age, rather than just requesting repair of major items and dangerous situaitons.


Some buyers knowlingly try to get the seller (because they have already agreed on a price, subject to the contingency items) to basically upgrade the house to what the buyers want as a "perfect house", at the Sellers expense, rather than paying the going market price for the condition it is in (with correction of only critical items) and then doing the upgrading or remodeling themselves at their expense. The Seller has to decide how far he is willing to go to keep the sale alive, and sometimes at some point it makes more sense (especially if the house is readily saleable at or around the listing price) to counter back with only minimal corrective work and if the buyer does not like that, let him walk and put the house back on the active market.


If you want to clarify WHAT the plumbing issue is, using the Answer This Question yellow linkk right under your question, I will try to give you a more specific answer on whether I would consider that necessary or nice-to-have work, and a ballpark cost of what I would expect it to cost.

Answered 9 months ago by LCD




Related Questions


Terms Of Use
|
Privacy Policy