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Question DetailsAsked on 10/25/2017

How much would its cost to replace knob outside the house

I was turning water pressure down because toilet keeps running and I stripped the knob.

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Depends on the brand - you might be able to eMail the manufacturer (if you can see the name and model number on the regulator) and buy or get one free from them. Or if you take the knob (assuming the knob itself is what stripped) to a plumbing supply store you might be able to buy a new regulator - remotely possible they would have a generic replacement knob which fits but unlikely.

But buying a new regulator at a plumbing supply and using just the knob is cheaper than having it changed out completely, then just put new regulator in a ziplock plastic bag and store where you can find it easily in the futre in case your regulator needs replacing - though after a number of years sitting on the shelf might dry out gaskets and seals and the diaphragm and cause them to crack and make it useless. A lot of plumbing parts have only a year or two shelf life before they should be installed.

If you stripped the knob because the regulator stem would not move, could be you need a new regulator anyway - could be the stem is corroded shut. Course, could also be one of the types of regulators which are not supposed to be "turned down" under pressure - some brands you are supposed to shut off the water shutoff valve and drain down the downstream pressure on the regulator, then adjust it, then turn water back on.

Look at the knob - obviously if split or completely rounded off inside it is probably shot - but if it turned on the shaft just because the center screw was loose, you might be able to take a wrap of electrical tape or plumbers teflon tape around the shaft and shove the knob back on and tighten down the center screw and have it work fine, if only partly rounded off.

One other thought - some regulators are outside, commonly on the "upstream" side of the water meter in a meter box in areas without true winters - but if you mean you were turning down the water shutoff valve (as oppoosed to a pressure regulator) that will only reduce pressure when water is flowing (because you cut down the flow capacity by partly closing the valve) - the static pressure in the pipes will be the same when there is not a major water flow occurring, so if that is what you were doing that is not going to solve the problem - but at least buying a new shutoff valve to get a new handle is cheaper than a pressure regulator.

On the toilet - unless your household pressure is unusually high (say over 60-70 psi) that should not make the toilet inlet valve keep running. And are you sure it is the inlet valve running (meaning water would be running into the tank continuously AND overflowing into the roughly 1" diameter overflow tube, down into the toilet, with the tank staying full to the top of the overflow tube except when you actually flush. Or possibly the bowl refill tube (the small diameter tube from the inlet valve assembly which feeds into the overflow tube) is continuously running.

If the toilet is, instead, intermittently refilling because water is trickling into the bowl from the tank, so the water level in tank is dropping as it runs into the tank, then it self-refills periodically as the float reaches the refill level - so-called "ghost flushing" - then your problem is leakage from the tank into the bowl, usually from a flapper valve or column-type flush valve leaking, not the inlet valve.

If you are not able to get a replacement knob/handle, then short of keeping a pair of vice grips handy to use on it, replacement of a shutoff valve or regulator is commonly around $150 labor (maybe $200-250 if in-ground) plus cost of the valve/regulator - which for shutoff valves is commonly around $25, regulators more like $50-300 depending on whether your area requires the expensive multi-stage backflow-preventer regulators (a few do - mostly back east) - most areas accept the $50-125 range types.

Answered 1 year ago by LCD




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