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Question DetailsAsked on 1/29/2017

I HAVE A 60LED/200LUMEN LIGHT VOLTAGE 3.7 V 2 WATT WIRE IT IN A GOOSENECK BARN LIGHT HOW DO I DO THIS

CAN IT WORK WIRED IN TO A REGULAR LIGHT A19 SOCKET THE WIRES FROM THE SOLAR SYSTEM I BOUGHT HAS SMALL WIRES

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3 Answers

0
Votes

Your house or barn wiring should be 120V so the 3.7V is a little confusing.

Please provide manufacturer and model number of the LED light. Has the light, in any way been changed from it's store bought configuration?

Answered 1 year ago by Kestrel Electric

0
Votes

Ahh - the bane of answering here - it is SO easy to miss the one key word in a question which makes all the difference in the answer. Happens to me frequently. The key word here which Kestrel - HI by the way - is SOLAR. So you are running a low-voltage (presumably 3.7V panel) solar lighting system, presumably with an in-line storage battery to store daytime energy for use in providing lighting during darkness.


Here is a link to a system that sounds like yours - same voltage and wattage and number of LED's, but different lumens (amount of light), which varies pretty widely between manufacturers.


https://www.amazon.com/Ziomee-Landsca...


You need a socket that fits the bulb base size and you have - here are links to normal bulb base types -


http://www.topbulb.com/light-bulb-bases


http://www.bulbs.com/learning/basecha...


"Normal" US socket type for the ordinary A-19 bulb (which is a shape and bulb diameter description, not a base size) - see following -


https://www.earthled.com/blogs/led-li...


A-19 is NOT a base description - would normally be an E-26 base for a normal A-19 bulb, so find a socket that fits your bulb, or vice versa.


AND of course the socket needs to be wired to the solar system, NOT to the barn 120V barn wiring in ANY way - including the box it is mounted in should NOT be grounded using the 120V ground, because at times that may carry enough voltage to damage your solar system. And get the positive (center prong) and neutral (bulb base threads) right to avoid possible shorting out through the fixture and the building. So yes can be done - would need care doing the wiring - I would leave extra stranded (solar system) insulated wire in the box for future cutoffs in case of future maintenance, of course you cannot put any significant pull or fixture weight hanging off the low-voltage wire duyring assembly of the fixture, and I would solder the stranded wire to the solid (or two strandeds together if fixture has stranded wire) before gently putting on a wire nut, because solid and stranded in wire nuts do not work well - tends to shred the stranded wire when you tighten the nut. Other alternative would be (if fixture has stranded wire too) to use a correct wire size crimp-type connector like telephone repairmen use - look like this -


https://www.amazon.com/TELEPHONE-CRIM...


You say a gooseneck barn light - sounds like an over-door yard or security light to me, which would normally be 60-100 Watts minimum incandescent (so about 800-1600 lumens). A 2 watt LED light will be more like a small refrigerator or microwave or single chandelier candelabra light than a yard or security light - 200 lumens is marginal readable condition lighting say about 6 feet from the bulb, so I suspect you will be disappointed unless this is only serving as a dim porch light to find the door - more of a locator light and only enough to avoid significant obstructions than for true area illumination or security. If an area (yard) or security light, at least 1600-2000 lumens would be more normal for that (say a 150-200W flood lamp in incandescent bulbs) - which a small solar system would not be able to power for any decent period of time if at all.


I don't know of anything that mandates solar system lighting be so labelled, but might be a good idea to label the hood or base (inside or out) as SOLAR POWERED so if any person in the future is trying to figure out why it is not working they don't assume it is because it for some reason is not wired to the barn wiring and do so, frying the solar system and creating a fire hazard.


If I were doing this, using an existing light fixture, I would also cut power to the barn wiring BEFORE it gets to that box (say at the breaker box or the prior light fixture electrical box if using the existing electrical box (and of course cap all wires in the box to show the disconnection is intentional). More likely I would cap those wires and put a solid cover plate on the box to abandon it, then move the fixture to a new box with only the low voltage wiring coming into it. Actually, by code, I am pretty certain that having live 120V wires at the electrical box (even if capped off) which the low-voltage solar-powered fixture is mounted to is contrary to code - because generally except in transformer boxes (where the actual power step-up or step-down is occurring) you cannot have mixed voltages in the same electrical box.

Answered 1 year ago by LCD

0
Votes

This is Erick in Member Care. Thanks for your interest in Angie's List!

We'll be happy to help find top rated Electrician to set this up for you to set this up if you'd like, but it doesn't look like you have a subscription to the List yet. You can join by visiting www.angieslist.com or by giving us a call. Our call center is available 8:00 am-9:00 pm weekdays and 8:00-5:00 pm ET on Saturdays.

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Answered 1 year ago by Member Services




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