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Question DetailsAsked on 4/26/2017

I need a ground wire ran through an interior wall and then through the outside bricks to a ground rod. Need cost.

I need a ground wire ran through an interior wall and then through the outside bricks to a ground rod. Need cost.

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You don't say WHAT the ground wire is for - makes a difference if for electrical, communications, or gas code, and size varies too - can be from (commonly - varies some by area) #12 for electronics/communications grounding except some phone companies require a separate #4 or #6 ground wire from the termination box, #12 commonly for gas line and water line bonding though some areas require a #0 braided ground wire, #4 or 6 for main electrical ground connection commonly but some require up to #00 stranded or braided, and for lightning protection systems commonly #2 to #0000 (four-aught) braided for the down-conductor and #6 for bonding commonly depending on the "Class" of protection.


But check local code authority if not using an electrician - varies by locale and what version of the code your area is running under - also some areas require braided wire for electrical and gas line bonding, some solid, and some areas require bare wire (which is just palin dumb since in a failure mode it may be arrying full voltage and more than breaker amperage) whereas others require insulated wire for all inside ground wires. And of course grounding wire sizes for electrical vary by the amperage rating of the service - generally the ground wire has to be as large or larger than the service wire so it can carry a short to the ground rod without melting, though some allow open air uprating if an exposed, uninsulated ground wire so it might be a bit smaller, like #0 ground wire on a #00 or #1 on a #0 service wire.


Also, different areas require different types of clamps - both and materials. Generally, you cannot legally just screw it to a piece of plumbers tape like in the old days - a designed-for-the-purpose ground clamp is required.


Running through a brick wall, the cable should likely be insulated till it gets outside even if not required by code - agains depending on what code you are running under, but good practice regardless.


Cost by an Electrical contractor (your Search the List category) probably minimum visit charge of from $75-300 - commonly around $150 plus or minus $50 in most parts of the country, plus from $0.25 - $3/LF additional if more than a few foot ground wire run depending on size. Plus about $30-50 ballpark for a grounding rod if you need a new one or don't have one, and clamp (about $10). In many areas you now have to have two electrical system ground rods and certainly for lightning rod systems - so even if you have one now may need another, plus bonding wire with clamps between the two may now be required by code.


Above cost presumes rod can be reasonably driven into the ground - if very bouldery or rocky, cost may go up if a rod or two is ruined in the process of attempting to drive it, and in undriveable ground can double to triple or even more to the cost to install a ground grid or horizontally buried ground rod instead of a vertical ground rod.


Also - again not knowing what this ground wire is for, but generally you do NOT want additional ground wires from devices to the electrical service ground rod - they should almost always be grounded only through the electrical system, otherwise some protection systems like GFCI/AFCI may not work right - though there are some jurisdictions (mostly on the east side of the country in my experience) which require gas appliance bonding to the water or metal gas piping outdoors.


BTW - if this is a required electrical ground for an electrical appliance (which would normally be grounded through a 3 or 4 wire wiring) it is illegal to run separate ground wire to a grounding point - the ground wire now has to be run with the power wiring - can be wire tied to the outside of it in most areas, but has to be clearly tied to and related to the power feed, not run separately. And in most or maybe all areas has to be connected to the ground bus in the breaker/distribution panel - cannot go to a separate ground location, because that can cause GFCI/AFCI, and with some models breaker, failure to operate properly in the event of a short or open neutral wire.

Answered 1 year ago by LCD




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