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Question DetailsAsked on 8/10/2017

I am planning to build a 960 square ft home 1BR, 1 Bath w/ full basement w/ materials = 56 K. Approx labor costs?

NE Ohio area-- 24' x 40' with kitchen/mud room/bathroom all in western end of plan. All extend 8' East. Great room is 21' X 24" with den and BR on East wall(11 x 24). Total bill of materials ( including costs of SIPs ) is 56290 $ before sales tax.
Considering size and poured wall foundation for full basement, along with linoleum and pine flooring, with modest countertops and fixtures, what can I expect to pay for a GC and labor? Steel roofing will do myself. Finished carpentry too. Will NOT do plumbing nor electrical. Have chosen Henry Blue Skin over house wrap (any comments?) Vinyl siding above grade, dimple board below. Suggestions?

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Here is a previous similar question with answer in some detail which might help FYI:


http://answers.angieslist.com/what-la...


The NAHB (National Assocition of Home Builders) website has market area data available in more detail, and national detail info on typical costs for each component of a new construction job (including the design, permitting, land, financing etc numbers which typically account for about 1/3 the total cost).


You said finish carpentry yourself - if you mean interior finishes and flooring as well, that is going to drive your percentage even more toward the materials cost being a higher percentage of the total cost - maybe towards the 60% range or even a bit more, say.


Dimple board - talk to the contactor IN DETAIL about the seam handling - a weak link in that product. Personally I like wide-roll bitumastic sheeting (for most homes can be applied in single sheet top to bottom of foundation wall though of course widely spaced end splices are unavoidable).


Blueskin - be sure you get the right one - presumably VP100 for under-siding use. Persoanlly I am no fan of the perforated waterproof barriers liek blueskin - they tend to accumulate moisture under them because even with the tiny air holes punched in them (which let VERY little air through unless there is substantial air pressure differential) so promote mold and rot in the walls - I prefer the tried and true Tyvek product with the proper moisture permeability rating for your situation. And even better, with an airgap behind it to provide for some in-wall ventilation and standoff, because if it gets wet it DOES transmit some wetness to the underlyinbg studs and insulation if in direct contact - that is true of all vapor permeable products. Not at all uncommon, especially with lap sidings (which are a cladding product, NOT waterproof at all), to pull siding and wrap off a house and see a thin film of mold.mildew and wetness over much of the wall if the outer sheathing zone it not designed with a ventilation layer. Double-wall construction is even better for that issue.


Steel roofing yourself - unless you have good experience with that, you might double think that - both from expertise/appearance standpoint, but also that makes you a critical link in the construction schedule as part of the drying-in - run slow on that or have a major rain before you get the roof on and the GC may claim you are responaible for delays and water damage and such. If doing a job where you have GC do basic construction but you are doing the finishes, generally much better to have him do EVERYTHING to final building inspection, then you take over for the (at least in many areas) post-inspection finishes and architectural features and such. If your work is part of wht is being inspected, that leaves major scheduling and completion and acceptance issues which greatly reduce your ability to holdthe contractor responsible for delays and/or inspection failures.


Not to mention most reputable GC's will not do a job where the homeowner is doing part of the building construction (most are fine with homeowner doing landscaping and such) - they will not accept you being involved in their scheduling and work product or involved in work being inspected, or if they will commonly will charge you a lot more for their part to make up for the hassle.


One other thought - if you think you need foundation drainage board, you undoubtedly need full integrated and edge-sealed vapor barrier under the slab also, at least a drain layer if not underdrain pipes and sump pump (even if that is never needed), and should if all possible put in a french drain system around and a bit BELOW the foundation footer leading to one or preferably two free-surface exits, properly freeze protected if applicable, Very cheap to put in during initial construction, expensive to put in after the fact and can make the difference between a nice basement and a damp mess of a finished basement. And of course finish grading and guttering/downspout treatment to keep precipitation and snowmelt water away from the foundation in the first place. Prevention is 99/100 of the cure when it comes to damp basement situations.

Answered 1 year ago by LCD




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