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Question DetailsAsked on 1/10/2018

Install a downdraft electric range in 45039

45039 is near Kings Island in Cincinnati

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If this is replacing another one and fits same place, then commonly, for purchases over about $500 or so, the selling place will commonly deliver and install for free and take the oldone away for disposal. Otherwise, if you bought it from a place that does not install and just need moving it into place and hooking it up (and maybe putting in anti-tip brackets) an Appliance Repair - Large tech can do that for minimum service call charge of typically $75-150, plus about $10-15 for the anti-tip bracket kit.


If range needs moving to the kitchen repair tech may need your help moving it, or may have to ahve another tech help him out (at added cost) - and be sure to tell him that is needed so he brings an appliance moving handtruck or helper. Not all appliance repair companies do this sort of moving and install.


"Installation" for a replacement range generally only involves maybe screwing down anti-tip brackets for the back feet to slip into (so it cannot tip over if someone puts something heavy on or leans on the open oven door) and plugging the range in - assuming it uses same amperage capacity plug. (Each 220/240V amperage capacity has a different plug prong orientation/shape - so if the new one has the same plug as the current one you should, unless somebody improperly changed out the outlet in the past for one not matching the circuit rating (check breaker rating to check that), you should be good. Or better, also check the manual or back plate on existing range for the circuit capacity needed, and make sure new one has same rating and plug prong orientation/shape.


If you mean replacing a regular range with a downdraft one and it does not fit the same space or requires a higher electric capacity, then who you need may range from just an Electrical contractor (your Search the List category) to upgrade the wiring capacity for commonly $250-500 range not including any needed drywall repair and repainting to repair any holes he has to make to run the new wiring (maybe a couple hundred $ more if the existing main feed for the range need upgrading AND he needs to run a new circuit for separate fan unit power at same time), to a Remodeling - Kitchen and Bath contractor to resize cabinetry (or build a surrounding island or whatever) - which can potentially run into the $1000 or two range for fitting a larger range into a smaller existing slot, or many thousands if building a new island to hold it, for instance.


If you mean a separate backwall draft unit (not built into the range) then you will likely, unless this matches what you already have, need at least an electrician to put an outlet for the fan unit behind the range if there is not one there - and the location has to generally be specific to the fan unit so the unit does not block access to the outlet, so commonly normal 110/120V outlets on backwalls behind ranges have to be moved to serve a separate back downdraft unit. For houses built for electric ranges commonly you will only have the 220/240V outlet back there - houses designed for gas and electric will generally (if not a real old home from when gas ranges had no electricity to them) have a 110/120V outlet as well which the fan unit may be able to plug into (possibly with relocation)- though I have seen high-capacity ones that need a separate 220/240V outlet for them because of the size of the motor.


For a vented backdraft unit (separate or built-in to range) then you need ducting run down to it - and these units generally call for a lot larger ducting size than will fit within a normal wall, so unless you already have ducting (the inlet locstion of whihc may not match your unit) commonly some bumpout of the wall is necessary (pushing the range further forward in the process) so in those cases generally a Remodeling - Kitchen and Bath contractor is a necessity


I hope you have read up on reviews on the one you are looking at, and at articles and blogs on downdraft stoves - because their flaws are many, including:


1) heat rises - so unless the downdraft fan is VERY high airflow capacity like well over 1500 cfm (hence noisy) it will capture only a small portion (commonly a very small portion) of the moisture and greasy air rising off the stove - resulting in higher household humidity, and kitchen odors and grease spreading through the kitchen and beyond. Generally, the exhaust from the front burners is hardly affected by the typical back-mount units.


2) the downdraft unit pulls air across the range top, so can cause spreading of grease in the air from cooking over the top and back of the range, requiring more frequent thorough soap and water cleaning of the range


3) the draft across the range top, especially with high-powered fan units which have any chance of being effective, removes heat from the pots and pans, so can alter cooking times - sometimes variably from use to use, and certainly so if run at a different airflow setting (low, med, high etc). With gas ranges flickering, wavering, or extinguished gas flame is a common complaint and the "solution" in most manufacturer manuals is to turn the unit down to low - hence eliminating any effective exhaust collection !


4) generally speaking, in my experience, cleaning the filter elements is more of a pain than with overhead range hoods


5) the built-into the range downdraft units and some stand-alone units commonly (unless a commercial downdraft unit designed for island counters and a commercial fume collection system) runs the cooking fumes through a screen (washable) grease filter which removes some of the grease and then exhausts it back into the room - so instead of the bulk of the cooking odors, moisture, and any smoke going up the exhaust duct to the outside air, it remains in the kitchen. Some also use a charcoal filter to remove some of the odors, though because of the necessary airflow and the amount of grease and moisture in the airflow, their effectiveness is low, and because they clog quickly with grease have to be changed every 3-12 months at commonly about $15-50 for the part - sometimes OK to do yourself, sometimes range has to be pulled out to get at it.


6) if this is a range with a built-in downdraft unit or an add-on downdraft kit which fits behind it, it is generally about 6-10 inches thick, so the range will stick out that much further from the wall. If the ducting (for a dcuted to the outside unit) has to be "bumped out" on the wall behind the range rather than interior to the wall, which is common with retrofits to connect to existing overhead hood ducting, then that push-forward amount can be as much as 12-20 inches - which can make almost any range a total misfit for a countertop insert situation. Ditto for deeper or 4-burner cooktops with an add-on backmounted downdraft unit.


7) one factor ignored by code and manufacturers is the fact, with gas ranges with downdraft recirculation (as opposed to outside vented ones) the exhaust gases from the range end up in the house - increasing household humidity and window condensation (and sometimes even causing mold issues), and putting the carbon monoxide and nitrogen by products of combustion into the air - which has been cited by the CDC as contributory factors to asthma, chronic pulmonary infections, and child development issues. Basically like running a gas heater inside the house - just NOT a good idea, especially with extended cooking periods, There have been cases of families being overcome by the fumes during extended holiday or extended family cooking sessions, and these fume and moisture issues are aggravated by some of the excessively airtight houses buing built to meet the tiop energy conservation standards.


All in all, I don't think I have ever heard someone talking about a downdraft unit who liked it after using it for awhile. Some said it was bearable because they wanted an island location without a big range hood hanging from the ceiling overhead, but as far as cooking and cleaning all said it was a pain and resulted in a lot greasier kitchen walls and especially, ceiling overhead. Generally, these ranges are not (except by the manufacturers) recommended unless you can only put it in a location where conventional overhead draft hood is not feasible - which is a rare situation. I even saw one time where a mass builder required that a buyer wanting a downdraft range sign a separate waiver disclaiming any future claims about venting effectiveness or moisture or grease buildup fro the range. And of course on the web you can find a TON of complaints about downdraft ranges - JennAire being of course the foremost name because they are probably the biggest manufacturer of these.


About the only upside to downdraft ranges that I have heard are the ability to put them anywhere in a kitchen without a draft hood overhead, and some (fairly minimal unless cooking an awful lot) energy savings because the recirculation ones do not vent conditioned (heated or cooled) indoor air to the outside.


But be VERY sure to check into electrical, space required, and ducting/interior recirculation issues before getting into a downdraft unit - not only from the effectiveness standpoint, but also because the installation costs can potentially run as much or more than the cost of the range itself.


Here is an article on downdraft ranges and downdraft kits FYI:


http://ovens.reviewed.com/features/as...

Answered 10 months ago by LCD




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