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Question DetailsAsked on 12/10/2015

Install water softener. What is the estimate?

I have purchase a water softener - Kenmore Elite Hybrid (single tank). It's a water softener + whole house filtration system. Its a new house. Want to install in the garage near the main shut off valve, however there is no floor drain and power supply and the water heater is on the other side of the garage.

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Ignoring any drywall repair/repainting needed if you want to run any of the piping or wiring in the walls, probably about $250-350 range (including materials) to run power to it if there is not an outlet nearby, about $300-1000 very rough ballpark to install a new floor drain or riser and trap if not near one, another $150-250 range probably to run water to it - VERY rough ballparks.


I don't know on the Elite Hybrid if the flush line is pressurized or needs to be free-flowing drainage - if pressurized you could route through water pipe to a drain location cheaper. OK - here is the manual below - it is evident that at least the salt tank overflow has to be gravity drainage even if the flush line can be elevated, so the unit has to be near a drain point - existing or new.


http://c.shld.net/assets/docs/spin_pr...


Sounds like you might be better off, if it will fit, putting it near the water heater and other power, especially if there is a floor drain or sewer line there you can tap into, because a new floor drain or trap costs a lot more than running power along the walls in a wall strip.


Of course, if going to keep the outside faucets full-flow capacity and untreated water (as is standard to provide full flow/pressure and save on chemicals), then you need to consider your house plumbing to see WHERE you want to tap this into the system - see diagram in manual. Depending on where the outdoor faucets are, sometimes you end up running new piping to them from near the incoming main shutoff valve as a separate raw water branch, then put the water softener near the incoming valve. In other cases, you place it a ways into the piping after the faucet taps but before the plumbing to the water heater and the rest of the house. In many cases you end up with one outdoor faucet at least on treated water, and jsut get a longer 5/8" or 3/4" hose to reach from the one that is easily piped to raw water for your lawn watering, using the treated water one only for maybe watering can and kiddie pool filling and such needs on that side of the house.


Plumber can certainly help with locating it in the most economical place - sometimes it works out nice and the entire install can be done for $250 range (if near floor drain, piping, outlet, etc) - commonly you have to pay more to install or relocate one or more of those so $500 plus is a common occurrence, and rarely to the $1000 range - particularly if all the outdoor faucets (and any sprinkler/irrigation system) has to be put on a totally new branch, which commonly means a fair amount of drywall repair and repainting afterwards.


One thing on the floor drain - depending on code and how much you are willing to risk a sewer overflow in the garage if there is a blockage downstream of that (if it would be the lowest elevation drain), you might be able to put in a new trap on a nearby drain line for the drain to avoid a new floor drain. In some locales (especially rural) the drain lines are just run outdoors to a drain pipe away from the house to dump in the yard or to percolate into the ground. The backflush water and salt overflow will both affect vegetation - as least discolor it and sometimes make a complete kill zone, and you don't want it dumping near trees or shrubs - the excess salt can poison them. And of course, any drain line has to be protected from freezing, so outside dumping is usually only used in frost-free areas, and most commonly in rural/large property zones.

Answered 3 years ago by LCD




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