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Question DetailsAsked on 12/2/2016

Is it okay to reroof now, December 02, 2016?

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3 Answers

1
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Depends on where you live - Hawaii or southern tier states probably fine in most areas except in the mountains. Also depends somewhat on the roofing you buy, because some manufacturers recommend minimum 50 or 55 degree ambient air temp, some 45, at leat one 60 - so you don't want them able to void your warranty by checking NWS official temps for the installation date and find it was below their installation minimums.


Generally - for asphaltic composition shingles I recommend not doing it below 50 degrees - at least bundle temp (though air temp may be less than that) but not below 40-45 degrees ambient regardless because the foot traffic and scuffing of the workers can crack the asphalt in the shingles (assuming here asphalt shingles).


Also, if done when the daytime roof temps (actual roof temp, not air temp) does not rise above about 70-80, the "tabbing" - the asphaltic adhesive strips that "glue" the tabs to the shingle layer below - will not adhere properly until they heat up next spring or summer, so would be susceptible to bend-overand blowoff in high winds till then. If the work HAS to be done in winter, shingle bundles should be heated (store in heated area till roofing day, then forced air heat under a tarp covering the bundles stacked on the roof, being careful not to overstack in any one place) AND the tabbing should be redone with roofing adhesive manually applied. This is usually done with air-powered caulk gun after a full surface area of roof has been done to avoid the mess and tracking around of tar which inevitably occurs if done row by row. As the tabbing is being done, the shingles should be gently pressed down into it to ensure adherance. Manual tabbing like this can generally add a half to one man to the job, so about 10-20% increase in cost - and you have to keep an eye on most contractors or they will skimp and skip or totally blow it off because it is backbreaking, tedious work. However, great care is needed to avoid cracking the shingles working on them because in cold weather or on cold shady sides of the roof they will cool to near ambient temperature quite quickly, so the key to avoiding damage is heated materials, get an area down fast and move on to the next before the shingles cool down too much. Laddering (working 4-6 rows at a time across the roof surface) rather than row laying can help minimize the trafficking on cold shingles, though that does tend to introduce patterning in the roofing appearance.

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Other roofing materials - built-up (hot tar) roofing repairs can be done in cold weather if needed, but better done in 60 degree or higher temps - ditto to sheet/membrane roofing. Tile roofing as long as the water barrier is not frozen or frosty the tiles will be a bit more brittle in cold weather so will have more breakage but otherwise if nail-down type can be done in cold weather. For grouted tile should not be below about 60 degrees, not only while working but also for the next week or so to make sure it cures properly before first freezing. Wood shingles/shakes split a lot easier if damp bundles and frozen, so generally not recommended to reroof with them below about 45 degrees. Metal roofing - other than risk of cracking or slipping on freezing water barrier, can be put on in pretty much any weather - I have worked far north jobs where it was done without problems (other than cold, complaining workers) at 20 below.


Certainly, if this is a reroof because of general aging but not actually leaking, generally better to wait till temps are sure to be in the preferred range to maximize the lifetime of the roof.


Of course, the urgency of your reroof job, and how many acceptable weather days your area gets might dictate bending the rules a bit - but preheating the materials and/or tarping over the work area and heating it can minimize that conflict.

Answered 1 year ago by LCD

1
Vote

Lots of variables with that question...I just installed a roof today in Illinois with 40-42deg weather. It was a simple roof that didn't require a lot of cuts and we kept the shingles heated in our shop 48hrs prior to installation (we didn't bring them to the job site until the roof was stripped and all underlayments were installed). Roofs require sun and/or air temp to seal naturally ( as stated by LCD in the previous answer) however you can get around this by hand sealing and as long as you document it and follow manufacturers guidlines (I guess I should say here you should make sure the manufacturer of the shingle you've chosen allows hand sealing, I use GAF aproducts for asphalt applications almost exclusively and they do)


http://www.gaf.com/Warranties_Technic...



(Please forgive the composition of this answer, I'm having problems using my iPad in this format)


So, that being said, if you have a relatively simple roof that isnt excessively steep and doesn't require lots of shingle cuts, as long as your chosen roofing company is willing to guarantee his work, will hand seal the shingles (and uses a shingle brand that allows for cold weather installations, you should be okay.

Answered 1 year ago by cewoodford

0
Votes

Sounds like cewoodford is a contractor who does it right - and he made a VERY important point which I keep forgetting to emphasize in my responses - DOCUMENT the job progress if at all possible - on roofing jobs photos of tearoff down to the sheathing (and any replaced sheathing), document the installated ice and water shield and water barrier and flashing and such, photo the materials used and have the contractor keep the labels for you to keep in your project cost/documentation file if feasible (at least get a copy of the purchase invoices showing what was bought for the job), and photos of the roofing procedure and nailing pattern and such including any "tabbing" (manual sealing of the tabs as cewoodford was talking about), so if you ever have a warranty claim you have proof (hopefully) of a job properly done. Course, if the work looks like this, maybe better not photographed excepot as documentation for a claim against the contractor - but hopefully that willnot be needed so your outcome will not be this sorry looking -


http://inspectapedia.com/roof/GAFShin...

Answered 1 year ago by LCD




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