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Question DetailsAsked on 9/12/2017

Must fill 1/2# deep hole in concrete with a flexible material that withstands weight of huge gate/metal wheel.

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You said 1/2# deep hole - assume you mean either 1/2" or 1/2' deep.

If this is a hole alongside the support post so it is wiggling, you need concrete to resist the load - you can get 1/2 cubic foot yield ready-mix "sackcrete" at lumber yards and home improvement stores.

If you mean a hole in the concrete - as in a popout or broken out piece, then a ready mix patching concrete (epoxy modified better than plain concrete type) is what you need, not a flexible material - comes in 1# bags for VERY small jobs (makes about half that volume when mixed) and also 1/4 or 1/3 (rarely available) 25-40# sacks, and 1/2 cubic foot yield bags - about 50-60# sack.

If this is an expansion joint which the wheel is catching in, which I infer since you say "flexible material" then gouging out the joint with a scraping tool or large screwdriver (though will ruin the tip) or cutting out the slot with an abrasive wheel on a skil saw to provide a vertical-face on each side of the slot, then hammering in a slightly wider piece of ground-contact treated wood (the green stuff) or (softer) heart redwood would be the normal solution - soak for 15 minutes first and slightly bevel the bottom edges so it starts into the crack easily, and hammer in with hand sledge or sledge hammer, using a sacrificial piece of wood to hammer on so you don't bash up the top edge.

If this happens to be a case where the wheel is not crossing the crack, but is rolling along the length of it, and happens to fall on an expansion joint, I would consider remounting the gate tothe other side of the fence if it will fit - so the wheel does not roll along that joint. Or, if it will fit and not jam the gate when open, see if you can get an overwidth wheel or rubber wheel rather than metal.

One other possibility if the wheel is rolling down the length of the crack - about 1/2" wide crack is the smallest this will work for - is get a bucket or bag(s) of fine-aggregate asphalt driveway patch (though of course will be black asphalt on concrete appearance-wise) and with it warm (indoor house temp for a day if colder outsidthe asphalt down into the crack with a stick or trowel or such, mounded up a bit above concrete height, then using a tamper or a large mallet or hand sledge/hammer or weighted hammer on a piece of wood, hammer it down into the crack - first with wider piece of wood till down to concrete surface height, then with piece of wood on edge to fit the crackk width, hammer it down in till very compact - add more and mound and hammer again as needed till no more will go in. The asphalt will "give" enough and squeeze up if needed to allow the conrete to expand without cracking. This gives you an asphalt strip for the wheel to roll on. [Prep - wash out crack and let dry thoroughly, and will stick better if you first apply a brushed-on layer of asphaltic crack sealer on both sides of the crack just before doing the asphalt - you need the black true asphalt/tar type, NOT the brownish asphalt emulsion. Likely to have to go to true building supply place, not a box store, to find that.] BTW - if asphalt strip is objectionable, you can brush a coat of paint or cement grout over it after the asphalt has cured a month or so to get the surface to more concrete-like color, thoguh will NOT match appearance.

If these solutions did not help, try to give a better description of the exact situation and an idea of the weight on the wheel (i.e. can you lift end of gate with one hand, two hands, two people, or what ? You can reply back, using the Answer This Question yellow button right below your question - when you click that, a Your Answer box will pop up. At the upper left of the gray bar over that box you can click the leftmost icon to attach photos in GIF, JPG, or PNG format.

Answered 1 year ago by LCD

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