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Question DetailsAsked on 12/13/2016

My submersible pump runs continuously, have changed pressure switch, pressure tank and the pump itself.

I have good water pressure at every fixture, and haven't run out of water yet, I replaced the pressure gauge and the tank tee when I replaced the tank, everything between the bottom of the well and the house is new. This is now a 100% new everything. The pressure gauge raises to approximately 60psi, which is when the switch should click off, but the switch never clicks off, I have to manually cut power to the pump, and the system maintains the 60 psi until I turn on a faucet, then the pressure drops back down, as expected. I've check everywhere for leaks, and I have no other ideas as to what this could be, this is the same problem that caused me to repalce everything to begin with.

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Ouch - hate it when you replace a bunch of stuff and find the problem is still there.


Since it holds pressure when you turn the pump off, not a leak in the plumbing or a leaking foot valve. You say it builds to 60 psi fine but does not shut off there even though the pressure gage says it is at right pressure. Couple of things I would look at:


1) is pressure gage right ? Get a $5-10 screw-on pressure gage with hose thread on it and put it on a hose bib (hose faucet) to check the pressure - the closest one to the pump, normally a drain valve before the pressure tank.


2) if the pressure is actually getting to the 60, try setting the pressure switch a bit lower and see if it will click off - could be a bad pressure switch.


3) if this is filling a water storage tank, then might be pumping and pumping to fill the tank at constant pressure of about 60 psi - meaning the tank would be about 140 feet above the pressure gage - so is tank still filling or overflowing ? Or is there any other open faucet or demand about 120 feet above the gage which could be open and flowing - watering trough, etc, which the water is continuously flowing out of when the pump is on, and is the right elevation that the water in the pipes maintains about 140 feet of head on the system when the pump is off even though a valve at that elevation is open ?


4) My guess, assuming no water storage tank, is your pressure gage is set at 60 but the pump cannot reach that, either because it is a low pressure pump (or losing pressure internally due to internal seal leakage or worn out internal parts) or you have a deep well (every foot of depth to water table takes about 0.43 psi to overcome the lift pressure) so it runs continuously trying to achieve a pressure it cannot attain.


Put the pressure gage on the drain valve (hose bib) normally located near the pump or tank and shut the shutoff valve to the house piping downflow of that point (usually right after the pump and before the tank but sometimes on other side of tank, especially if it feeds a water storage tank) and then turn pump on in this shut-off system - and see if it is capable of reaching say 70 psi or more - if the pressure gage does not shut it off, shut if off manually before it exceeds about 80 or so (or say 10 psi above whatever your operating pressure is supposed to be) to avoid any damage to piping. If it will not go above say something in the 40-60 psi range, then you have two choices - get a higher pressure pump, have the pump checked out to see why it is not putting out more pressure if the well pressure head plus 60 is much less than it is supposed to put out, or set your pressure switch to cut off a bit below the highest pressure the pump can actually put out without any demand on the system and live with the lower pressure.


If a surface-mounted jet pump, could be it is at its operating pressure limit - either due to the lift required out of the well, because it is only rated at 60 psi, or because a variable pressure internal pressure switch on it (some jet pumps have a built-in pressure limiting control) is set at 60 psi.


5) Oh - one other what if - some pumps have a bypass/drain line back to the well for pump testing and for draining the system, or to recirculate a bit of water to prevent riser line freezing - make sure that is not open, or if a freeze-protection line, it should be set typically so it causes the pump to run every 15 minutes or so - may be wide open and taking all the water the pump can put out at 60 psi. However, if the system is holding pressure with the pump off, that would not likely be the case.


If this does not help, then I guess you will have to call a Well and Pump contractor - and if you had one replace everything so far, probably a different one - or if you think the one you used took you for an unplanned ride due to greed or imcompetence, you might consider having a civil engineer who deals with site development and is experienced with well/pump systems come out with a well and pump specialist contractor to assess the system and the work done to date, then diagnose the problem, with an eye of officially documenting the reason you piled all that money into it and the problem still is not solved. You might be able to recover some or most of the cost from the first contractor's bonding company.

Answered 1 year ago by LCD




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