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Question DetailsAsked on 7/26/2017

PRV lowered pressure too much for irrigation. is it possible to move so it's higher outside, but lower inside home?

before we bought the house, there wasn't a prv in place, and the sprinkler system ran perfectly. a PRV was added right near the street, and now the sprinklers struggle with a 3ft radius. everything is dying. can the PRV be moved so that it throttles the pressure coming into the house, but leaves the sprinkler system that is rated for 120psi, with the about 110psi it was previously getting?

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Sure - just be sure to cut and cap any connections from the house plumbing at the irrigation system controller to avoid cross-connection over-pressuring of your household plumbing, and the irrigation system tie-in has to be on "your side" of the main shutoff valve (or put a new one on that line) and on "your side" of any usage meter of course.


Solutions include moving the PRV to the house (on the house side of where the irrigation system taps off the incoming line) though that might mean having to change out your meter if it is not rated for the high pressure.


Another option is, depending on where your shutoffs and any required backflow preventers are installed (though new ones can be added on the new line at some added cost), is running a new line from the irrigation system to the service line, tapping into it on the utility side of the PRV (if they will allow that) but still on your side of the meter.


Another option - again may mean a higher pressure rated backflow preventer (usually not an issue there at those pressure ranges) and maybe meter - then adjusting the pressure regulator at the street back to full pressure (or take it out entirely if easy to do so), then install one regulating the household pressure to typically around 40-60 psi, and if necessary rerouting the irrigation feed line so it intersects the incoming line on the utility side of the new pressure regulator location.


It all depends on your piping configuration and what location and order your main shutoff, PRV, and meter are in, accessibility and cost of messing with the regulator in place and with the meter, and burial depth needed for any new outdoor irrigation system feed line.


With deep burial requirement to get below frost depth increasing the incoming pressure from the street back to the 120 psi, putting a new regulator inside the house, and moving or replacing the irrigation system feed to intersect just before the new regulator may well be cheapest solution.


Make sure that if the irrigation tap off the supply line from the utility is on the street side of your incoming line shutoff valve (the one you can readily turn off, not the street curb stop utility shutoff unless that is accessible and usable by you during all seasons), that the irrigation line has a shutoff valve on it where the line taps off the water line or before it enters the house so if you have a leaking feed line or irrigation controller you can shut it off readily and quickly - especially at those pressures, because a full fitting break would cause quite a flood. If in a location without any freezing weather, putting the supply line to it and the controller ouside the house where a major leak would not flood the house (like in a shed or barn or such) might be an idea, though that would mean some repiping to connect back to the zones.


Or at least put a water alarm on it which will shut of an electric shutoff valve on the feed line if there is flooding - that that does not protect against a break in the supply line to the irrigation system if that runs through the house.


Plumbing is obviously the Search the List category for this - cost could be as little as a few hundred $, or in $1000 or even more range depending on what needs to be moved/ changed/ repiped - and especially on burial depth required for any rerouted outdoor lines.

Answered 1 year ago by LCD




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