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Question DetailsAsked on 2/19/2014

Which manufacture makes the best roof shingle for florida

Replacing a tile roof...shingle is best financially...live on west coast of Florida near water. HELP!

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3 Answers

0
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Click on the Home > Roofing link (in Browse Projects at lower left) and you can find a lot of responses on roofing and shingles, and some comments on specific shingle brands.

Personally, Owens Corning, Certainteed, GAF are probably the best known brand names.

Be sure you get shingles rated for your Hurricane rating in your area - check with your local building department website. At least some areas of Florida require specific state of florida test certification on the packaging to be approved for installation. You DON'T want to get a roof on and then find it does not pass inspection.

Answered 5 years ago by LCD

1
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What caused the tile roof to fail?


By the way, there are steel roofs out there designed to mimic the look of tile so you can potentially preserve that visual without the weight.



Answered 5 years ago by WoWHomeSolutions

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One other thought - assuming you have a 2-layer tile roof like this -

http://www.russlyon.com/blog/wp-conte...

where one set of tiles is bedded in grout U-side up, then those exposed edges are overlain by upside down tiles with lots of open space around the tiles, your air conditioning heat load can go up by as much as 25-40% if you put in an asphalt shingle roof, and your air conditioning system might end up undersized if that is the case.

Metal roofing reflects a lot more of the solar energy but normally does not have the open ventilation around the shingles that the tiles have, so will come in somewhere between the two in terms of the amount of heat getting into the attic. Sheet metal roofing on a built-up ventilated batten system with radiant heat barrier underneath can reflect a great deal of the heat from the sun, but not all roofing brands allow radiant barrier underlayment underneath without voiding their warranty, because it does make the roofing run a lot hotter, and does require fastening systems that allow for substantial movement. Shingle metal does not generally have ventilation underneath, so is much closer to asphalt shingles in terms of heat gain to the attic unless the manufacturer allows a radiant underlayment.

FYI - what the radiant underlayment (look up Sharkskin Ultra Radiant, for instance) does is, wherever the roofing is NOT touching the underlayment, reflect back as much as 95% of the radiant heat coming through from the shingles. Some manufacturers warrant their paint coat against cracking and crazing and the metal roofing from buckling in this case, some do not. You should NOT use a radiant barrier underlayment under asphalt shingles or membrane or built-up roofing - they will severly overheat. I attended a demonstration at a conference where they put radiant barrier under asphalt shingles and under roofing membrane - the asphalt shingles curled into U's and bled asphalt all over within 4 hours of being placed in the direct sun - the membrane actually deplasticized and flowed like molasses down the sloping surface, and reached over 300 degrees !

Answered 5 years ago by LCD




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