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Question DetailsAsked on 9/19/2016

can I side over cedar shake siding legally in the city of Manitou springs Colo with lap siding

I just want to know if I can go over the cedar siding that's on the house with lap siding

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I can't imagine it is not allowed - you would have to check with your local Building Permits department to be sure - and of course with Planning and Zoning or check your subdivision covenants if you live in a community with very tight restrictions in siding types and (or colors), but I can't imagine lap siding would be prohibited (except metal is not allowed in a very few areas) unless you are in a formal historic district with special regulatory controls.


From a technical standpoint - if the house was sided with random length and variable thickness shakes (as is very common, as opposed to the usually uniform-dimension wood shingles) then you would not have a uniform flat surface to put batten boards on to nail the lap siding to, so the end result could be pretty wavey and uneven looking. Also, the lap siding board width/exposure would have to be matched to the shake exposure dimension so you don't have some boards fastening on the more recessed part of the shakes (upper part of the exposed face) and some on or overlapping the shake ends, which would put vertical waves in the wall and possibly result in some of the lap boards being at an offset angle from the others. Sometimes doing this results in a REALLY ugly looking surface - extremely amateurish looking.


Personally, I would not put any other siding (or roofing) over shakes or shingles - I would tear off, put in/on insulation and water barrier as appropriate for your wall construction and climate, then the new siding. Both from a general appearance standpoint, and for better insulation and air loss control. Plus putting a new siding (or roof) over old shingles/shakes presumes the old water barrier underneath them is not only in good shape but can also last ANOTHER 30-50+ years - that is asking a lot, especially since your existing is probably tarpaper or waxed kraft paper (like the paper layer on cardboard), which is likely pretty deteriorated by age and heat.


My opinion - for the $0.50/SF or so additional - tear the old off and start with a clewan, planar surface and new underlying materials - and add insulation if beneficial in your case, because this is the cheapest time to do it so what would otherwise be maybe an iffy payback can end up giving a very good return on investment when you add new insulation during a residing job.


Just be sure vapor transmission is considered so you don't get it trapped in the walls - in some climates for instance you need to use vapor-permeable insulation board or leave small gaps between the boards to let moisture pass through it and the water barrier (which is a vapor transmittable material, not totally waterproof like the common interior vapor barrier). More on that subject in some of the prior questions with responses in the Home > Siding link in Browse Projects, at lower left.

Answered 2 years ago by LCD




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