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Question DetailsAsked on 7/16/2017

cost to clean oil from double car paver driveway and re-seal

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OK - my bad - answered below ==== marks are for asphalt sealer before it registered on me that you are talking pavers (presumably concrete pavers) - so that answer here, asphalt drive response left below for any readers who might be looking for that info.


The oil spot removal (which commonly will not be total removal, just down to a light stain on the pavers) typically $50-100 additional to the rest of the job for one or two spots a couple of square feet in dimension - pressure washing can immediatelyi follow the oil spot removal but definitely has to dry before a good sealer is applied. Pressure washing typically around $0.25-0.50/SF for a good job with a circular pressure washing disc - avoids the linear lines common with normal wand pressure washer.


Sealant - can run as low as $0.25-0.50 for a cheap silicone sealant, but your top-end stone and concrete sealers will generally run more like $1-2 SF applied (around $1.25/SF is a commonly used ballpark number) including the pressure washing - epoxy sealer about $1/SF more, give or take.


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Following apply to asphalt driveway sealer only:


Here are links to a few prior similar questions with answers - minimum cost typically $250 or so - costs can run from about $0.15-0.50 for a quick wash down and applying the cheapest "oil emulsion slurry" sealers (which make it pretty for awhile but commonly last just a year or maybe two), to around $0.50-1/SF with asphalt emulsions (better but still only a few years life), to $1-2.50/SF for molten asphalt/tar sealant.

https://www.angieslist.com/articles/h... http://answers.angieslist.com/Cost-Dr...
Basically speaking, the "cold applied" (which may include being heated to around 150 F or so) are just refinery bottoms oil - the residual oil at the bottom of the refinery run which has not been converted to fuel or lubricating oils. This is commonly called "asphalt" but is not, so being an oil it leaches out fairly rapidly - and is typically applied as a water emulsion or slurry so the amount of oil you are getting is typically 20% or less - some of the box store "asphalt sealers" are about 90-95% water if you pour it out without remixing, so basically no more use than spray painting the drive with heavy oil. True "asphalt" - which is the stiff to brittle residue left behind after all the volatiles in oil evaporate - like in the massive tar pits a couple of places in Russia, the Black Sea area and in the Caribbean, is rarely used for "asphalt" paving or driveway sealing these days - hence the shorter life span and more rapid cracking up of pavings than in the old days. However, there are typically one or maybe more companies in most towns of around 30,000-50,000 population or more, which use hot-applied tar or asphalt - typcially heated to 350-400 or so degrees, and sprayed on at that temperature (similar to the way built-up tarpaper roofing is done). That product, which drips and overspray of should cool and dry to a very stiff or hard (rubbery or stiffer) substance within 10-30 minutes of being dripped, is actually better than the binder in the asphalt, and should (if done properly on a well-cleaned surface) look near-new (ignoring any tracked-on dirt or mud) for a couple of years, and gaenerally shows no cracking (unless the drive itself cracks) or wear off of the surface for 5 years or so even on drives which are snow plowed and have studded tire traffic, and commonly lasts about 10-12 years before showing enough wear that needs renewing. The oil spot issue - for one or two normal couple of square foot spots under a dripping car, typically add $50-100 for cleanup - which should be done enough in advance of the sealing that it can dry and the chemicals used to remove the built-up staining can evaporate.

Answered 1 year ago by LCD




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