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Question DetailsAsked on 12/13/2017

how much does it cost to reline pipe under slab

2' drain pipe broken in slab, 10-20 ft. in from outside clean-out port

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You are in luck - below I provide links to a number of previous similar questions with answers, FYI. However, couple of things to mention:

1) Generally, repair of a single problem area (assuming this is a spot issue, not general pipe deterioration) is cheaper than relining unless there are major accessibility issues (more than just a concrete slab), you have a fancy floor you don't want cut into, or it is under a structural column or such. Also, where relining comes into economic play is in long runs - the entire sewer from house to street for instance, not short runs unless real unusual access issues. Far more commonly done in commercial settings where tearing up a foyer or restaurant floor or such would be a major hindrance or cause major economic loss - I don't think Ihave ever seen a residential case with normal accessible slab or ground for excvation where relining a sewer was more economic than digging the pipe up unless the run was well over 100 feet.

Also, while industrial plants do reline 2" lines, sewer lines smaller than 4" are normally not relined, and I have never heard of less than 3" being relined (with a reinforced liner) because you typically lose 1/4-1/2" in diameter in the relining process - so for a 2" line that is about 50-75% loss of cross-sectional flow area, meaning the line would likely not work and would back up in use - certainly so if carrying waste from a toilet. There are sprayed (unreinfroced) lining methods, most commonly used in water pipes, but I put little faith in them to repair a sewer/drain line.

You say 2" - unless this is just a drain from one fixture or shower or such, or from a floor drain, that is undersized for a DWV line. If a toilet is connected to it the line should be 3" minimum, and modern construction would use 4" if connected to multiple fixtures. So if that is the case, replacing the pipe with larger size might be in the works - by choice while replacing it, or because the code prohibits replacing it with another 2" line.

I assume the line has been routed or jetted or you know the line is broken, not just clogged - and of course before making a final decision one wouldnormally run a sewer camera to see just what the issue is if not known already, because it might be a disjointed pipe, broken pipe, tree roots, waste solids blockage, general grease and soap scum buildup in the line, a sag in the line accumulating solids, etc - which it is would affect the preferred repair method.

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Answered 11 months ago by LCD




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