In response to your followup about "what's the difference between cement patch, pourable grout, and the squeezable quikrete stuff that comes in quart bottles?"
Here is a link to the quikcreste site list of products - you can look through the various concrete repair and driveway repair lines for detailed info on the types and their products, though other manufacturers have similar products too. I will refer to Quikcrete products below though they are not my preferred brand but they are commonly available to consumers and you have them available, so I will refer to them for your convenience.
Cement patch is a grout (like Quikcrete Concrete Patching Compound 8650-35) designed to be used to patch pits and holes in concrete, comes as a premix or as a powder you mix to about cake mix consistency and trowel on. Typically recommends a concrete binder or adhesive (like Quikcrete Bonding Adhesive 9902) if a straight cement-based repair material - some latex or epoxy modified ones (more expensive by factor of two or so) are recommended for use directly on clean rough (like broken-out) concrete. Some of the highly epoxy modified grouts can be used directly on clean but not roughened concrete, though outdoors without a rough or broken surface their bond is dubious.
Pourable grout is simply one that has fluidifiers like flyash or acrylic or resin modifiers to make it cure correctly with enough liquid in it to allow it to flow into cracks and such, and is commonly heavily latex modified if sold as a crack filler - like the squeeze bottles of concrete crack filler (like Quikcrete Concrete Crack Sealer 8640).
Self-leveling grout (like Quikcrete Concrete Resurfacer 1131 if mixed to liquid consistency) is somewhere in between - has modifiers to allow it to flow out enough it roughly self-levels at about pancake batter consistency - would work for your surficial popouts but may or may not be flowable enough to work in the cracks - would certainly take some rodding or putty knife poking in to get it flowing down in fast enough to not drive you crazy, and probably cracks less than about 1/4-1/2" it will bridge over rather than flowing down into.
For your purposes for a DIY job, if you want one product likely to work for everything but the surficial crack waterproofing (like the latex crack sealer), I would recommend Concrete Patching Compound 8650-35 for several reasons - because it can be mixed trowelable for the spall and popout repairs, and pourable for the crack filling, does not require 3000-4000 psi pressure washing first to prep the surface nor a concrete adhesive/binder, and comes premixed so easier to use, though will be more expensive than the Resurfacing 1131 product for that reason - but hopefully you are not talking a large amount.
The reason to use the separate crack sealer for the top 1/4-1/2" of the cracks, again, is if you use grout it will crack away the next time the crack moves, andjust pop out - you need a flexible compound like the latex crack filler at least at the top (and can be used full depth but pricey to do so on large cracks) because it will bond at the sides and is at least somewhat flexible.
BTW - I think I mentioned this, but if you take care with degreasing, picking out loose pieces, and hosing thoroughly and then making sure the surface is appropriate dampness or dryness for the product being used, with minimal tools and a bit of care to avoid getting it all over there is no reason you cannot do this yourself.
Note - when working with the material in cracks, MUCH easier to use an old coffee can or plastic drinking glass to dip some mixed product up and pour from that than try to handle a gallon can of pourable crack filler or 5-10 lb pail of mixed grout over a crack. And don't forget to have a bucket of clean water and sponge handy to clean up any spills ASAP, before they spread or can set. And this time of year, if in a northern area, watch your allowable temperatures, and should be protected if if will be exposed to temps below 40 within a couple of days after application.