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Question DetailsAsked on 12/18/2016

my new home garage floor is already cracking i called someone on this site they came out but never showed back up a

MY GARAGE IE CRACKING WHAT MUST I DO?

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3 Answers

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can this be fixed?

Answered 1 year ago by RANDALLRAYMOND

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If a paid member, you should be able to call Member Services and have them get the contractor on the ball - though if they were a no-show maybe you just want to do a bad Review on them for the no-show and pick another well-rated and reviewed person - assukming you did not give an advance payment.

If this is a new home (still under warranty) then the original builder or developer (whoever issued the warranty) would be the one to call on this, to fix it for free. If no formal warranty checdk local and state law - many areas require a 1-year materials and workmanship warranty on new homes.

Now - as to the cracking. There are occasionally (rarely in garage floors) expansion joints in slabs - joints with a bond-breaker like an apshaltic tape or asphalt-impregnated fiberboard designed to provide expansion/contraction at a controlled place so it does not crack through the slab in a crooked line. That type of joint is expected to open up maybe 1/8-1/4" as the slab cures. More normally, there is not an expansion joint in a garage slab (as opposed to in a concrete drive where there normally would be one every 10-20 feet or so) - instead you would normally see a v-scribed joint groove in the slab, formed with a tool in the uncured concrete. The slab would be expected to crack there with a visible crack following the groove - should not be over about 1/4" wide crack at the worst. This can be cleaned and filled with concrete caulk or joint filler if you desire - and you should do so if you wash your garage floor, to keep water from getting under the slab. This would be considered normal curing cracking for a thin slab, not a flaw.

If your slab is monolithic, with no joints formed in it, then commonly you will have hairline cracking as it settles and shrinks with curing. Common patterns include perpendicular cracks in a cross both across and down the center of the slab (approximately), or if it is settling more than is good for it, sometimes diagonal cracking from the corner(s) through approximately the center. In some cases both or one in one end of th garage and the other in the other end. If these cracks are hairline to maybe 1/8" or so, WITHOUT any vertical offset across the cracks (just a slight pulling apart) and are fairly straight (commonly within about 1/2" of following a straight line) that is normal and can and should also be concrete caulk filled to keep dirt and water out. You might have to repeat the cleaning out and caulking in a couple to few years, then maybe every 5-10 years or so after that.

On the other hand, if your cracking is resulting in vertical offsets between pieces of the slab, pieces or corners detaching, the slab significantly bowing or tilting up locally, or has mudpan or spiderweb type cracking then those are bad. The former is commonly due to poor concrete mix or poor compaction of fill under the slab - spiderweb or mudpan or random angled or curving cracking commonly due to too much water in the concrete mix, or sometimes freezing before it cured (so with 7 days or so of installation date). Spalling (pop-outs) are also normally due to freezing before it is cured, or can sometimes be due (usually over years of time) to reactive aggregate or excessive natural salts in the aggregate or mix water.

If the contractor says what you are seeing is normal, then to back up your claim you might have to get a licensed/registered professional Civil Engineer or Structrual Engineer who is routinely involved in concrete construction and testing to look at it and do a letter report on tis condition, documenting and stating whether it is exhibiting unacceptable cracking or not - cost typically $250-400 for something like that, so most people try to pursue their claim with the builder/developer/general contractor first.

IF it is cracking inordinately or literally breaking up, no fix would correctly put back to "new" condition other than tearing it out and releveling and recompacting the fill under it and redoing the slab. Patches and epoxy joint sealing and such are remedial measures commonly used to extend the useful life of an old, deteriorating slab - there is no reason to accept them as a fix for a defective new slab, if that it your case.

Answered 1 year ago by LCD

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Hi,

This is James in Member Care. Thanks for your interest in Angie's List!

We'll be happy to help find top rated services to help you with this, but it doesn't look like you have a subscription to the List yet. You can join by visiting www.angieslist.com or by giving us a call. Our call center is available 8:00 am-9:00 pm weekdays and 8:00-5:00 pm ET on Saturdays.


Thanks for your question and we look forward to assisting you!

Answered 1 year ago by Member Services




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