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Question DetailsAsked on 2/14/2015

need info on different brands of split system heat pumps to replace our current one that is a York.

We are thinking about replacing our current York heat pump and was wonderiing what brand to go with. Our York is a split system heat pump. It is a 2 1/2 ton we want to replace with 3 ton. We have a 1300 sq. ft. Ranch with full basement.

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2 Answers

0
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When increasing the size, you need a real Pro, as te refrigerant lines may need to be increased in size, and the duct system almost surely will need to be increased in size. The original install likely has undersized air ducts, so have that addressed.


If either needs to be increased and they don't you will lose capacity,efficiency, and longevity of the system.


Many contractors will increase the equipment size without addressing these items, but that doesn't make it right.


As far as brand, I'd look at Carrier, and their Greenspeed or Infinity model. Great system.Beyond that check the Lennox systems.

Source: www.bayareacool.com

Answered 4 years ago by BayAreaAC

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BayAreaAC is in the HVAC business, so listen to what he says.


As an addition to what he said regarding upsizing units, a bit more detail of your options might be in order - hopefully he will come back with counterpoints if he disagrees with anything I say:


1) consider the difference in efficency between your old system versus the new one - you are looking at a 20% increase in capacity, so if you are looking at lower energy costs by working your unit less hard, the higher energy efficiency of modern units might make that difference with a 2.5 ton unit. Depending on your actual duct and fan capacity and on how much colder an airflow your system can tolerate (from comfort and condensation standpoints), and on how much of your cooling capacity is taken up in heating mother nature, you might well be able to go with a higher-efficiency 2.5 ton unit. For instance, if you are wasting a lot of your capacity in losses to or heating from outside air, a system with less outside system exposure or insulated coolant line might save some of that lost energy, as can sometimes a higher-capacity condensor unit to remove more heat from the coolant. In many cases refining the system design can give signfiicantly greater useful capacity without an increase in total system rating.


2) in some systems, subject to airflow velocity and noise limitations, a new more powerful (higher pressure) or higher velocity fan with controller can provide more heating/cooling capacity without increasing duct size, as some duct systems are limiting cooling/heating capacity by having so much friction to flow that the design airflow is not actually not being moved


3) In some cases, rather than do extensive duct modifications (especially if it means ripping into finished walls and ceilings) you can modify the ducting by adding another zone or branch to reduce the backpressure on the system - commonly with minimal finished surface disruption by doing so in crawlspace/basement, or by installing a small exterior chase for the ducting which can commonly be added on alongside an existing chimney chase to reduce visual exposure.


4) If the cooling is OK but heating is not, there are supplemental heating options that can commonly be added to the heat pump to meet tht need, especially with electric heaters for short-term use during only occasional cold spells. Commonly, even though the electric heat elements reduce overall energy efficiency, if not needed often they commonly are much more economic in the long run than increasing the unit capacity, particularly since heat pumps are really much more effective overall as air conditioners than as heat units.


5) If your system has the capacity to heat/cool the house to the desired temperature during extreme events but is running too much, sometimes a more advanced multi-speed unit can help out by running at high capacity during extreme demand periods (like right at the start of a warmer programmed "daytime at home" demand cycle), but then providing additional heat/cooling at low speed to maintain that setting without allowing the significant interior temperature swings that cause excessive run times or too frequent cycling.


Not always, but in many cases one or more of the above types of modifications can avoid re-ducting - which commonly saves cost, but even if not cheaper can avoid major in-house disruption and the hassle and disturbance and risks to current finishes and furnishings of doing drywall cutting and repair and repainting. A good contractor should be able to run the calculations to determine what your system conditions are, and whether your ductwork or individual room settings are adequate for your current conditions, and whether tweaking the heat pump system design can avoid reducting. At a guess, unless you are in pretty cold country or a pretty hot desert area, I would expect a 2.5 ton unit to suit a 1300 SF house.

Answered 4 years ago by LCD




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