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Question DetailsAsked on 1/21/2018

recommended roofers in 45177list of complaints on said roofer

paint metal roof as well as screw down loose pieces, cover fascia and soffit.

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Certainly a roofer is the right person to fasten down any loose metal roofing pieces - though a touch of investigation of WHY they are loose would be in order, to make sure the wood they are fastened to is not rotting, or that the fasteners are not pulling through the roof, which might indicate a need for secondary screw installation using fender washers or special metal roof flange washers to increase the pull-through resistance.


Painting the roof - most or almost all residential roofing companies are NOT expert or even at all experienced at this, and you do NOT want Bubba's Roofing using a roller to repaint your roof. You need a commercial building roof who routinely cleans/strips and repaints metal roofs (actually not that common a thing to do, so not a lot of roofers have the spray equipment for it), or find a Painting contractor with lots of experience in repainting painted sheet metal facing materials - again, a commercial painter who paint metal buildings a lot is what you need to get a quality job, so not likely more than a very small percentage opf the painters on Angies List because few of them will have any experience repainting metal panels.


To get a decent repaint job it HAS to be stripped or sandblasted or high-pressure stripped - just washing and painting is pretty much guaranteed to result in uneven appearance for the ground, and in peeling down the road.


Fascia and soffit covers - some Roofing companies (your Search the List for members to find well-rated and reviewed vendors for this and to look at their reviews) do this, as do a lot of Gutter companies, assuming you are talking extruded pre-painted or vinyl fascia covers and insert type soffit covers. BTW - if getting this done, sincegutters have to be removed to properly do fascia covers, consider if your gutters need work or upsizing/deeterioration causes replacement too - a lot cheaper to do it at the same time while the gutters are off anyway.


On the soffits - be sure they are insect screened, and that the open area significantly exceeds the minimum needed for your attic ventilation - I recommend at least 50% more open area then the lesser of the ridge or eave vent open area, well distributed along their length, to compensate for the double airflow resistance (soffit opening plus eave opening into the attic) and the screening.


Also on the soffits - they should NOT be put on if there is signs of leakage through the underside of the roof - expanded and splintering plywood, staining on the underside, mold, etc until that cause if solved (usually by a reroof) because light mold or such can thypically go a decade or more without serious damage if exposed to the air, but make that an enclosed space with soffit covers and it can rapidly turn into a mold farm and spread to the atticand walls too.


In fact, I do not like soffit covers on any house for this ventilation restriction reason, and emphatically recommend against them in areas where you have prolonged winter icing on the roof or any galciering or icicle formation, because it promotes condensation on the underside of the sheathing and also inhibits moisture evaporation through the back of the fascia board (though proper fascia covering can help there). One of the worst thing you can do for a roof is put soffit covers up when you have moisture coming through the lower part of the sheathing (usually due to lack of ice and water shield or glaciering/ice damming), or in any climate due to frequent splashing from gutters wetting the fascia board or run-over from under-shingle seepage on an unfaced fascia board, which then rots out the fascia board and rafter tails.

Answered 9 months ago by LCD




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