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Question DetailsAsked on 5/29/2017

the paint on my deck floor is peeling, how can i correct this and start again?

We painted a 9 years old unpainted wooden deck with trex paint last fall and after a harsh Idaho winter the paint on the floor of the deck is peeling off in large chuncks. How can we treat the wood and start again?

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Trex paint ? Did not know they made paint - or do you mean Trek deck paint.


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But basically painting (as opposed to staining) over untreated wood with any heavy-bodied finish will generally only last a couple years in your environment at best, and be a continual maintenance issue. The problem is there are always scratches and cracks and pinholes in the paint for the water to get through the paint to the wood, but it cannot effectively evaporate back out through those same small openings, so the wood stays wet. In basically dry environments (not yours unless you are down in the dry southeastern part of the state near Utah) rainwater that gets in the wood can wick through the wood and evaporate from the sides and underside to dry it out, but in generally damp/wet environments and under snow (like most of your state) it stays wet and starts mildewing and then rotting in short order, and the moisture cause the paint to debond and peel off - usually in large flakes or patches like you are describing. Ditto with the texture coatings and Rhino coatings and such - pretty much any heavy over-coating has the same issue.


Solutions -

1) strip and sand the deck and treat with Cupreanol or similar mineral spirits-based (NOT water or silicone based) treated wood treatment chemical - will commonly last 5-10 years that way, and can be pressure washed and retreated when it starts looking grayish (meaning the treatment chemical at the surface has leached out). But comes only in a british green and dark brown, though you can dye it darker.


2) replace the decking with something that lasts a long time by itself - ipay, ironwood, heart coastal redwood, aluminum, etc - though even those woods should get a penetrating oil-based sealer or stain-sealer.


3) go with (not that I recommend it based on continuing splitting, bleaching, and fuzzing issues) a "composite" decking - Trex probably being the best known of these. Basically a sawdust and plastic composite which in theory will last a long time and never needs care other than deck washing evedry 6-12 months, though that is a promise which in my experience is more a dream than reality, and I certainly don't think the about 100% price bumpup would be worth it even if the products performed as advertised.


4) go with a naturally rot resistant wood like douglas fir, redwood, western red cedar, some types of cypress, etc and treat it top and sides (NOT on the bottom, so it can breathe) with an oil-based penetrating stain-sealer (two coats a good drying week or more apart for first application) - though cleaning and retreating every few years will still be the norm. But the stain needs to be a penetrating type, not a heavy-body type. Basically, if it obscures the wood grain it is heavy body and will perform like paint and start peeling. In my experience the silicone "sealant" types like Thompson Waterseal are a no-go - are effective at sealing the water out for a year of less, so you are into annual pressure washing and recoating.

Answered 1 year ago by LCD




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