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Question DetailsAsked on 5/23/2016

the plumbing hardware is not anchored to the studs inside the wall. There are two showers that have this problem.

What will it cost approximately to fix the problems listed above?

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Might be the mounting in the wall has come loose from its fasteners - like if you pull on the shower head a lot adjusting it, nails might have pulled free. Usually there is a "stub-out elbow" or "drop-eared elbow" in the wall that is fastened to studs or a board between two studs - looks like this -


http://www.homedepot.com/p/NIBCO-1-2-...


Might be removing the shower head and the cover plate would allow enough room to get in there and remove nails and replace with longer screws to tighten it down.


Otherwise, four alternatives -

1) there are press-on collars that go around the shower head arm and have ears that you can screw into from the shower side (after removing cover plate and sometimes after unscrewing the shower arm to provide clearance). Basically a clamp that goes over the shower arm and screws to the stud or framing blocking. IF there is not enough clearance to work from the front, there are oversized cover plates so you can open up the hole enough to work, then put on the oversize cover plate to cover the hole.


2) there are escutcheons designed to fit over the shower arm, press-fitting into a properly sized hole in the enclosure or tile - some screw adjust to clamp to the arm after installation and compress in the wall, so it locks the shower arm into the wall opening - others just press-fit. Not readily available - probably a plumbing supply house is only place to find them, but a split plastic hole bushing from hardware stores commonly works as well - has to be a tight fit to hole the arm from moving in and out. Some contractors just wrap waterproof duct or electrical tape around the shower arm and then jam it into the hole with a rod or screwdriver, compressing it into the opening to hold the pipe in place.


3) depending on access through the hole (probably only with shower arm removed) you may be able to reacy in and mount a couple of pipe clamps to the pipe and framing - look like an electrical conduit clamp but need plastic or copper or rubber insulated if for use on copper pipe - sample image below


http://www.mscdirect.com/industrialto...


4) Otherwise, requires opening up the wall to repair the original fitting - certainly not the preferred alternative if avoidable because then you have wall surface repair to do.

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If you meant the faucet hardware, similar fixes - typically removing the cover plate will allow enough room to reach in there and put in a couple of pipe clamps


IF the shower arm is moving in and out or up and down you do NOT want to let it keep doing that - can fatigue the piping in the wall and cause failure, which then means a more expensive pipe leak and in-wall repair.

Answered 2 years ago by LCD




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