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Question DetailsAsked on 12/12/2016

trapezoidal glass approximately 6 feet by 8 feet at the greatest was cracked in remodeling. Replacing cost?

It has a four inch crack beginning in one corner. What would it probably cost to replace it?

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Depends on the type of glass of course - typically for single pane glass, no with special energy-saving or solar UV barrier treatment on it, I would expect around at least $400-500 and possibly more like $750 ballpark to replace the glass. If single pane specially coated glass probably more in the $750-1000 range - ditto if near the floor so it has to be safety glass. If double or triple pane then I would expect more in the range of $1000.


This assumes in a window unit where glass replacement is anticipated in the design - some (especially newer) vinyl and fiberglass windows now come with the glazing unit integrally molded into the frame so you have to replace the entire window unit, frame and all - probably pushing $700-1000 for the window unit itself especially if not a factory standard size, and $500-750 labor probably for the removal and new window unit installation for that size.


Also, some aluminum windows require removal of the entire window unit to replace the glazing unit (aluminum frame sometimes has to be at least partly disassembled to put the glazing unit in), so again probably in the $1000+ range if that is the case.


Also assumes ready access to the exterior (working room and not unduly steep in front of window, and working room on roof in front of it if second story dormer or such) and not over second story in height so readily accessible with scaffolding, because that size window is not a safe ladder job. If in a higher story or highrise or such I have seen that size window replacement run over $2000 - more if a crane is needed for access.


In higher story situations sometimes they try to replace the unit with an interior insertion unit - window unit slips in from the inside rather than the outside, then exterior weathertrim or brickmold is put on from the outside to secure it at the outside and to provide waterproof exterior. Still requires some outside work but not handling a large window expensive window unit on the outside of the building.


Of course, you don't say WHO cracked it - you or a contractor. If contractor cracked it would be HIS responsibility to get fixed unless in the contract you specifically waived such damage risk.

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I may get yelled at about this next comment - you did not say how concerned you are about this crack appearance. Assuming a residential situation so no liability issue such as might arise in a commercial setting with a repaired window. If a double-glazed unit air would almost certainly have gotten into the sealed interior already so likely to get condensation - but in money-tight situations some people seal the crack in the broken window with a windshield repair kit (on both sides if single-pane). If double-pane or triple-pane and starting to condense moisture on the inside sometimes they do the one-sided injection glass repair route and to control condensation have the glass repair contractor carefully drill vent holes top and bottom with a carbide or diamond glass drill (one would go at the tip of the 4" crack to act as a crack-stopper). Properly done this will stop the crack from propogating in most cases and can give a stopgap repair, though of course a multi-pane unit reverts to only about half as effective as it was compared to single pane, because the vent holes allow air circulation so you get cold air flowing out the bottom hole - but still a lot better than single pane. This does NOT work well in real cold areas - the outer pane (or center pane/film in some cases) gets so cold that you get ice formation between the panes, which will result in corrosion of the perimeter seal and rarely even breakage of the glass, but in my area I have seen a number of such repairs which are kept sealed in the winter (possibly with a bit of frost or condensation on the inside of the unit) then the rubber plugs removed in warm weather to air out the moisture if applicable. Definitely a stopgap measure, but when it means saving quite a few hundreds of $ many people fine that acceptable - visually covering the crack and any vent holes over with a decorative hanging do-dad or dreamcatcher or such.


Others have the interior flushed with nitrogen and inert gas reinserted between the multiple panes, then the access holes plugged - though this service commonly is billed at a far higher rate than is justified. Typically works for a year or three but generally the unit eventually starts condensing moisture in the interior again - but if the holes are placed near top and bottom so can be used as vent holes, does not hurt to try that (if reasonable price) and then if moisture does later build up remove the plugs and allow the unit to vent.


This sort of stopgap solution works well for some people, especially in moderate or hot climate areas, but can become an issue come home sale time. Normal cost about $100 or so for crack epoxy sealing and drilling vent holes, commonly twice that or sometimes much more for same then inert gas injection and plugging the holes. The pricing on the flushing out air and moisture then reinjecting inert gas seems to normally be based on about 1/2-2/3 the normal cost of window replacement, not on the actual cost of doing the job.

Answered 1 year ago by LCD




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