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Question DetailsAsked on 2/15/2014

vinyl wrap of soffitt and fascia

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2 Answers

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What is the question?


When you say "vinyl" wrap you are likely referring to an aluminum coil that is PVC coated and then formed via trim brake to wrap the fascia and rake boards. Most will not use the same coil stock to wrap the soffit overhang. That is typically done by installing new soffit.


If you are going that route, I prefer the enamel coated trim coils over the PVC coil stocks. They seem to hold their color better and not tiger stripe with dirt/algae/bacteria as easily.


Make sure they actually open up the soffits as compared to just installing new soffits overtop a wood soffit that is not venting properly.

Answered 3 years ago by WoWHomeSolutions

0
Votes

1) As WowHomeSolutions said - I have seen a number of people tear off vinyl or vinyl coated facing (and there are pure vinyl fascia covers available in some areas to fit standard 2x6 and 2x8 fascia boards - applied with construction adhesive as a slip-on) and replace them with enameled aluminum - the tiger striping and mold growth he mentioned being the sole reason. Can get out of hand in one season, especially if your gutter retains snow so the fascia area has no ventilation in parts of the winter, or splash from the gutter can get onto the fascia.

2) Personally, I prefer unfaced fascia boards - with proper drip edge overhanging the gutters, gutters up fairly but not totally tight to the shingles (to reduce splash and blowing drips), and gutters sloped slightly away from the house so they can not overflow on the back side if blocked by leaves or snow, I find that pretty much eliminates fascia damage, and can go 15-20 years without repainting behind the gutters if originally properly painted iriginally. Mine are original with zero rot or peeling with the original 2 coats of Weatherbeater trim paint I put on fascia when I bought the 2 year old house 29 years ago both behind gutters and exposed at gables and rakes, though I did repaint the most weather and sun exposed rake last summer.

3) I believe the single biggest mistake people (and contractors) make with fascia boards is painting all faces - the back face should be left unpainted, or at most lightly primed with a paint designed to be breathable if client demands painting. You need the exposed back to evaporate any moisture that does get into the fascia board. Fully painted ones are like fully painted deck boards - will pick up a bit of water here and there that wicks in through cracks which are not large enough to provide any evaporation, so moisture content goes up and up till dryrot sets in. I have seen fascia (and deck) boards that were just shells of relatively intact paint surrounding a plank of rotted wood and fungus that could easily be totally disintegrated by bare hand.

4) Of course, for fascia that will be concealed by gutter (or fascia facing), this is an excellent place for gas-infused copper ground contact rated treated wood (the green type) - as the slotting for the treatment will not show, and the treated wood will be able to handle high moisture and possible continuall dampness far better, though will show on the back side for those who layon chaise lounges examining the underside of their roof overhang.

5) On the soffit - other than the fact I recommend against soffits as being unnecessary moisture retention devices and obstructions to full access airflow to the eaves, do NOT put plastic or metal or vinyl soffits over wood ones - take the wood ones out to avoid rot from condensation at the interface between old and new (because you removing the free evaporation surface from the old ones), and make sure there is significantly more open space in the soffits than in the eaves or you will significantly restrict the necessary attic airflow.

6) Contractors - Search the List for local Roofers and their reviews. Also installed by some Gutter installation companies, though their technical expertise level tends to be far lower in general. A few professional firms out there, but many hire basically high school kids with maybe one day of on the job training, then turn them loose.

Answered 3 years ago by LCD




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