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Question DetailsAsked on 9/26/2016

when the cold water is turned on more than a trickle in the master bathroom first sink the water shutters

makes a loud noise and drops to a trickle. Forcing you to turn the handle on the faucet almost off. when the shower is first turned on you can hear a loud noise and the water comes out with force and you can hear it in the pipes. The master bath second sink the cold water works fine.

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If only occurs at that one faucet - not at tub, toilet, other bathrooms or kitchen, etc - then almost certainly a worn seat in the faucet or a chattering cartridge in the faucet - commonly due to a worn internal spring.


Commonly, if this has not gone on too long (so has not worn a groove in the faucet metal), most faucets can be fixed with a rebuild kit - normally not to hard to do yourself if slightly home handy, or typically Plumber minimal trip charge of about $90-150 (more in a very few very higher priced areas) plus about $10-25 or so parts kit cost, depending on brand and model.


Handyman can do this too, but by the time he figures out what make and model you have (if he can do that), then goes to get parts, and fixes it (hopefully correctly) - might be cheaper to just call a plumber, telling him brand name if you can see one, and have him fix it - they usually stock a pretty good supply of rebuild parts in their truck - though a new faucet commonly takes a trip to the distributor or store if you don't like the VERY limited stock he will have in the truck.


Or if badly worn or too old for parts to be available reasonably, typically $200-250 range plus about $10-25 parts plus cost of new faucet - which can be $40-50 for lowest end box store, more like $75-150 for mid-range, or $150 to hundreds for high-end. My recommendation for normal midrange faucets, if you can find a you like and basin hole matchup, is Peerless/Delta (same company and parts, just different external appearances and finishes). I have used them for around half a century - and commonly they go 20-35 years with zero maintenance, and then just need a simple rebuild kit to make them good as new again.

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If occurring at multiple usage points - sounds like one master bath faucet and shower maybe in your case - then unless you just coincidentally happened to have two faucets go bad at once (highly unlikely) then sounds like a pressure regulator misbehaving - they get cranky when they get old and start crudding up inside. However, should have similar effect when any high-usage demand is turned on - usually starting with tub or washing machine flow because it is quite a bit higher than normal faucet flow. Normallyi second sink would cause same problem - maybe it has a lower flow faucet, or the shutoff valve is more restricted so it does not pull as much water ?


If occurring at two places, then Plumber will have to track it down - or do it yourself with one person turning water on and other listening at different places in the house. Pressure regulator is usually the next thing in line after the shutoff valve - almost allways in house though in non-frost areas can be in an outdoor in-ground shutoff valve box or meter box. In areas with freezing in winters, usually water pipes comes into house (crawlspace or basement or utility room) then shutoff valve then pressure regulator and then maybe a backflow preventer before the cold water line splits off to the house and the water heater and such. If pressure regulator, generally not worth rebuilding due to labor cost - about $150-250 replacement cost (including labor) in most areas, up to $400-500 in the very few areas (mostly large east coast cities) which require the multi-chamber regulator and backflow preventers with gauge which typically run about $250-300 just for that type regulator, as opposed to the $50-70 range for the normal single-chamber regulators.

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Third possibility is air in the pipes and the other sink does not happen to be at a high point in the pipes so does not accumulate air - but since you did not mention the faucets/shower spitting and shooting mixed water and air at you, presumably not that issue. Commonly caused by pump or well problems, like low water in the well or restrictions in the foot vavle below the pump letting air into the line - or equivalent problem at the public utility if on public water.

Answered 2 years ago by LCD




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