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Question DetailsAsked on 3/26/2017

A outlet in the front of the house and the breaker box is on the back of the house

I need a power outlet on the front of my house and my breaker box is inside my laundry room.

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2 Answers


If you need this as just say a 15A utility outlet, then an electrician might be able to tap off a nearby circuit with enough capacity - possibly even a lighting circuit in some cases, particularly if built by someone with my frame of mind, who run the same 20A capable wiring for at least exterior lighting as for outlet circuits - so in that case might be commonly as low as about $250-350 - plus whatever drywall repair might be needed from running the wires. Sometimes you can just drop a tap off a lighting box to a new outlet right below and cause zero drywall damage. Might even be cheaper if he can tap off a nearby circuit like an outdoor light fixture wiring and run exposed conduit (inside or outside, which can be painted) from there to the desired outlet location.

If you are talking a higher-capacity circuit, like a 30A car block heater circuit, one for high-amperage electric garden tools, or for charging an electric car - then the separate circuit direct from the breaker box which you are apparently thinking about would commonly run in the $400-500 range - possibly less again if able to run exposed conduit for the wire to run in (commonly done in garages) or if it can be run through exposed basement or crawlspace joists - otherwise typically the hundred or two additional for the electrician to run through existing ceiling or walls, but then sometimes several hundred or more commonly for a handyman or drywall/painter contractors to patch the drywall and repaint it.

If you are lucky, the joist run in the direction from the breaker box to the outlet location (and the more flexible you are on that exact location the cheaper) and he can just go up the wall from the breaker box into the ceiling, through the joists across the house to the outside wall, and down the outside wall to the outlet location - takes a lot less holes in the drywall than if crossing through joists where you typically need an access hole in the drywall about every 4 feet (every other joist bay, drilling through both the adjacent joists from each hole).

This of course assumes the breaker panel has physical space (free slots) for an additional breaker (though there are half-width ones which allow you to compress available space) and that the added load will not overload the panel over its rating or over the rating of the main breakers. Generally, for a convenience outlet, this is not a problem - for a 30A 120V block heater or electric yard power tool outlet generally not unless your main breakers are less than 125-150A, if for an electric car plugin (especially if rapid-charging) then can be an issue in a number of cases with 150A services but generally not with 200A unless it is an all-electric house (electric heating and range and dryer and A/C and such) or electric furnace, in which case rapid chargers commonly require a service upgrade, which can add generally around $500-1000 minimum and sometimes a smuch as double that or more, depending on specific individual site conditions and whether you do the upgrade as an upgrades main distribution/breaker box or as a separate auciliary box pulling straight off the incoming service at the meter box (or more commonly in an immediately adjacent disconnect or main breaker box).

Electrical is obviously the Search the List category for this work.

Answered 3 years ago by LCD



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Answered 3 years ago by Member Services

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