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Question DetailsAsked on 5/28/2016

After flood, smelled mold in my kitchen. Under my island -3 pcs of 1x3 screwed flat to slab- can I remove or lift?

Flooded from rain. Dried entire house out. Smelled mold in kitchen. Removed every board from under my island that wasn't a support and stlll could smell it. Hammered the support foot(?) over a bit and discovered a tiny bit of green coming out from under the 1x3 screwed flat to the slab. There are 3. They each have a vertical board which appear to be supporting the island in the middle (granite top, 3' x 6' with sink). I'd like to add another flat board on the other side of the vertical support boards and pull out the dirty anchored boards. ???

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Granite countertops are pretty intolerant of losing support, especially if the newer thin granite (under 1.5-2 inches in thickness), so I would not advise that YOU do this. You might well be able to replace this support (probably construction adhesive glued to the countertop though) without trouble - I just don't recommend people who are not experie3nced with it messing around with stone countertops because one mistake (too high or too little support) and bang, you have either an unsightly crack repair or a thousand to few cut and splice or replacement job. I would advise getting a well-rated Countertop contractor who does a lot of granite countertops to do the replacement with new supports and removing the existing 1x3's for you - or better yet, just take them out (with proper temporary support) and bleach the flooring under them and immediately put in new 1x3's and supports and be done with it.

Simpler option if you want to avoid a contractor - don't get carried away with this in quantity especially if wood floor, but two options:

1) use swiveling fan (like simple $15-20 box store one) under cabinet (do not leave running while out of house, for fire safety) to thoroughly dry out the area for a couple of days - once the mold is dry it will stop smelling unless it transitioned to wood fungus growth (wet or dry rot), though the mold spores are still there and will reactivitate if it ever gets wet again. This is a simple initial step though, and if does not work can graduate to next level.

2) If that does not work or last, squirt with jet-setting on spray bottle or or use a basting syringe or such to put a bit of laundry bleach mixed 50% with water and with added Borax powder (the laundry dry powder in a box in laundry detergent area of store, NOT the Boraxo hand soap) per box instruction along both sides of the 1x3 to soak in under and kill the mold. Obviously do not soak the bejabbers out of it, because lateral migration could bleach cabinets or drip down to floor below. You just want enough to soak in under the wood and kill the stuff growing in under there. For better penetration you could alternativbely or additionally drill a small holes (don't penetrate significantly into the underlying subfloor) every 3-4 inches or so along the centerline of the 1x3 and put the liqjuid in there (ditto for #3 below).

3) you have to be even more careful about lateral bleeding staining things that show, but getting a quart (smallest quanity available) of Watco or Cupreanol or Rustoleum or Copper-Green or Green Products treated wood touchup chemical (Copper Napthenate or Copper Azeole or similar), intended for touching up the cut ends on landscape and treated deck lumber, and again run enough in at both sides of the 1x3 to soak in underneath to kill the growth. Will make ann ugly green or brown or orange stain though, because this is a stain treatment to match the treatment on pressure treated boards. Course, this presumably will be below the bottom liner board in the cabinets so should not show at all.

Answered 4 years ago by LCD

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