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Question DetailsAsked on 3/20/2017

Best prices on transmission flushes in south bend

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2 Answers


Best price is probably going to get you the least professional job. Cheapest is undoubtedly going to be some tire or muffler or quick oil change shop - but bear in mind those types of places have been caught a number of times not doing a flush at all but charging for it, just draining and changing the fluid without a flush they charged for, flushing with used transmission fluid which was drained from other vehicles, etc. Not to mention the risk of over or under-filling (which can toast your transmission), over-pressuring the flushing and damaging the hydraulic ports or valves or blowing out a transmission cooler or cooler lines (some of which are commonly rubber and can't handle high pressure), blowing out filter seals, over-tightening filler and drain plugs and cracking aluminum transmission cases, etc - there is a littany of damage and crooked service complaints out there on "transmission services". I know of at least 4 acquaintances who have talked of having it done at an economy auto shop or a place that was not a dealer or transmission specialist shop (like oil change or tire or muffler shop, for instance) and ended up with a transmission which had been running find being toast or exhibiting a cracked case at a plug within a month.

Bear also in mind that most manufacturers (including GM, Chrylser/Dodge, and Honda for a few) specifically recommend AGAINST transmission flushing unless there has been noticeable wear in the transmission (meaning metal chips in the system), or it has been overheated and the fluid has been burnt - in which case dropping and cleaning the pan and changing filters and commonly also pulling and cleaning shifter and hydraulic valve block are also recommended (along with any repairs or band replacement necessitated by the abuse).

Also - if manufacturer does recommend flushing in your case - be sure they use the correct material. Some do recommend a solvent (especially if the tranmission has been smoked) - but in most or maybe all cases they recommend (after the flushing solvent is used and drained if solvent cleaned, otherwise as the only flushing media) using new transmission fluid identical to what will be put in the transmission afterwards, so you are not mixing two potentially incompatible fluids, because whatever you flush with will leave at least some residual liquid in the system. Modern automatic transmissions, even light duty ones, last amazingly long for how they are built, as long as the right fluid is used and there is no mixing of brands or types - mix them or mix in some solvent which is not fully flushed and blown out and you can get very rapid shifter valve blockage or transmission scorching, or rapid wear in the transmission due to improper lubrication (especially if a solvent isleft in there).

Also - the normal flushing machines only dilute, not replace the fluid (and not all of it) and commonly do not replace the filters and dirty pan. The proper procedure, though it is more costly, is to clean the pan and replace the filters first (so that dirt is not contaminating the flushing fluid or new transmission fluid), then do the flush, drain the fluid (including blowing out lines to remove the fluid in cooler and lines to and from it, which can be half the total fluid in the system), reclean the pan and replace the filters again, refill the cooler and lines (should be done manually otherwise the transmission pump will be getting a lot of air through it), then top off the fluid to recommended level/quantity, run engine/transmission per manual for specified time, then check fluid level and top off as needed to proper level. Takes about twice the time and cost as a simple flush, but keeps from mixing the new fluid with old and dirty fluid, and ensures you have a clean pan and filters with the new fluid. THis is a general procedure to heavy equipment transmissions (though most of them have attachments ports and externally mounted filters that make it a bit easier) which see much heavier service but commonly last tens of thousands of operating hours.

Of course, if your fluid has more than a trace of metal in it (for transmissions with wearing bands) or any visible metal for most of those without adjustable bands, or is "blackish" rather than just a darker shade of the original fluid color, that is indication of the transmission already having had measureable wear and/or overheating, so while clean filters and pan and fluid certainly is a good idea, it will not solve any wear and tear or scorching which has already occurred - and if the valve block and valves (for those which are serviceable without removning the transmission entirely) are not removed / cleaned of any scorching or carbon during the service may not do any noticeable good at all.

Other than an OEM dealer, Auto - Transmissions would be the Search the List category to find well-rated and reviewed place to have this done (and to determine if it is actually a good idea).

Answered 3 years ago by LCD


BTW - here is a link to a previous similar questions with a number of answers and some links to other articles on this subject - you can also google about transmission flushes and see a lot of arguments and experiences leaning each way - for and against.

Answered 3 years ago by LCD

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