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Question DetailsAsked on 9/8/2016

Bk yard shed. 10x12. roof put up before top part of walls - so roof not overhanging. Put up another layer of roof?

Low slope roof 1:12. However... l put up the bottom part of wall first, then roof - as it was going to rain. Now doing top part of walls - No overlap was planned for. . The top part of the wall meets the top part of the roof. But in some areas it is up to 1/2 gap. Should I put another layer on the roof? It is 1/2 OSB now.I don't want to remove it. No snow here, not a lot of rain. I put the roof up because it was going to rain but now I see my error. I didn't plan for an overhang, I wanted it square on all side.. But I didn't take into account the width of the wall sliding/ plywood.One door one window. Backyard shed. I don't have the rolled roofing up yet, just the felt.

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Voted Best Answer

You could remove the felt, overlay it with another layer of plywood overhanging, then do the roofing. What I would do - one of following three options, depending on potential for icing and wind lifting the roll roofing and on whether the roof is high enough that flashing would not be an eye/head gouging hazard:

1) put up oversized drip edge flashing like following with a few inch overhang - comes in 10' pieces, be sure to tuck it in UNDER the felt when nailing (meaning you will have to upstaple the bottom edge of the felt and peel it back to get the flashing in under it) - then when roofing run the roll roofing onto the top of the flashing. I would use asphaltic mastic roof shingle adhesive on globs along the top of the flashing to stick the rool roofing to so you don't have several inches hanging out to flap in the wind. If sticking out more than an inch I would put a backer piece under it - 1x2 or 2xs depending on overhang amount, to support the flashing - but flashing should extend below the bottom of the trim piece to ensure the drips don't wick back along the trim to the wall.

2) Just put a piece of fascia trim along the top of the roof like normal and extend the felt with a foot wide strip or so (placed in UNDER the existing felt, so some nail/staple removal again) and extending 1-2 inches past the fascia piece, then the rool roofing over that and extending 1/2-1 inch past it - the roll roofing will eventually curl down asin the picture and form a drip edge by itself. (Right side of photo - left obviously has inadequate overhang of roofing) -

3) fancier solution if you want to kick the water further out from the wall to prevent staining and wetting (probably overkill for a shed) - is to add a mansard extension, with ice and water shield UNDER the bottom edge of the existing felt and down over the mansard edge, with the roll roofing coming off the main roof down over the mansard - would want the mansard extension to be at a 30 degree slope probably, to avoid a real sharp bend in the roofing material -

OK - could not find decent photo offhand - but basically a sloped roof extension fastened to the side of the shed with its top at the level of the top of the roof plywood, like a narrow porch roof connecting to the main roof - could be plywood or 1x4/1x6 supported on knee braces or decorative brackets, or could be something like a 4x4 fascia board (solid or built-up of 1x material) chamfered or sloped to provide a top slope for the roofing to come down and get it away from the siding - or could be a shimmed-out (like over 1x4 at top of siding) vertical fascia like this (color sketch at bottom of article) to get the roofing out away from the siding. Fascia itself usually 2x6 to reduce warping - 2x4 or 1x material will warp badly in the weathering.

In any case, visualize the potential water path to be sure any water running down the roof (on roofing or on top of felt) gets out to the outside with dripedge or ice and water shield or such so it does not go down into and destroy your wall.

Answered 3 years ago by LCD

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