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Question DetailsAsked on 4/1/2014

Can a crack in my granite countertop be repaired?

Crack is in the narrow part, in front of the sink. It started with hairline and now it is a bit wider and deeper and
water goes in when I wash dishes.

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2 Answers

Voted Best Answer

To me it sounds like a poorly supported joint let loose. If a one piece counter can not be done due to the size this is generally where most granite is seamed as the joint is smaller and less noticed. Depending on a number of things the repair choice could be different. If the counter can be removed without damage to the backsplash or cabinets possibly one piece could be removed. I would assume that you have an undermount sink and that will have to be removed as well. Most of the fabricators I use cut biscuits (football shaped splice plates) into the mating edges at the joint, so if this was the cause it should be done. If the slab has stopped moving or for a temporary repair the joint can be filled but I would still remove the sink as the seal to the bottom of the counter has been broken. Generally they are epoxied to the bottom of the top, some fabricators use caulk and in this case I would hope so since the sink will come out easier.


Answered 5 years ago by ContractorDon


Good answers by Don. Could be a construction joint like he says, in which case there is a similar matching joint behind the sink, which may or may not be opening up. If a sheet joint, will be perfectly straight and probbly straight from front to back. If jagged or a crooked break, then the front lip has cracked.

Unfortunately, many countertop installers never learned the right way to do it, don't read the manufacturer instructions,, or just get lazy or think they know better, and use intermittent shims around the sink rather than a rigid base all around it to mount it to - so the narrow front and back edges are commonly the first places to crack. The right way to avoid this problem, unless your cabinets are moving around so much it has no choice but to crack, is to use a cutout piece of temperature and moisture stable material to underlie the cutout, and epoxy glue it to the underside of the countertop as a reinforcer. Some installers/companies use a piece of scrap countertop, some use concrete backer board, some overlie the entire cabinets surface with 1/2 or 3/4" plywood underlayment (my preference), some use a specially made reinforced rigid fiberglass backing board that is peel and stick, some companies sell special metal brackets that are pinned into the countertop, some add a double thickness of the countertop as a seam support strip - like in the photo about half way down in this article -

Either way, this additional supporting brace acts as a reinforcer to support the countertop right to the edges, particularly on the tension side of the countertop which is where it needs it the most by the sink. Another thing most countertop installers do not do is provide a separate support set of edge strips, like in the above article, or cross supports under the sink from cabinet to cabinet so the cabinets carry the full weight of the water-filled sink and garbage disposal instead of the narrow parts of countertop.

Here is a sample installation manual, just randomly chosen from Caesarstone Quartz countertops, showing use of sink support beams to carry the sink weight - on page 22 -

your countertop will have to be shimmed up to level again, sink supports and countertop edge support pieces or ledges should be put in if not already there, then the crack can be sealed with stone adhesive glue. Depending on your countertop material/color, they may use a matching glue, or may grind some dust from the underside somewhere to mix with the very top part of the adhesive to get a surface color match.

Answered 5 years ago by LCD


How Granite Cracks Happen

One of the biggest geographical differences between the West Coast and the rest of the United States is the thickness of granite counters and the need for support. Still, many granite and quartz counters installed on the West Coast are 2 cm in thickness. The fabricator laminates two pieces together to create a thick edge or bullnose. The sink can be between the suptop and the counter or installed under the counter using a sink setter or straps. It is common for the sink to be sandwiched between the granite and the suptop. Because of this arrangement the intrusion of water is a particular problem. The support rod is usually encased in a polyester rodding glue that breaks down under prolonged contact with moisture. This breakdown along with the absorption of water into the underside of the granite creates all of the conditions necessary for the rod to corrode and begin to expand. The expansion is slow and steady and acts like a spreader pushing the granite apart.

It begins with a small crack usually on the right side of the sink. If you have a crack, look at the inside of your sink rail. You should see a crack or void in your sealant where moisture has been allowed to enter for some time. Unfortunately, your counter has already begun its slow failure. The best thing that can be done now is to reduce or xxxx the corrosion as much as possible. To do this, remove the caulking, and stop using your sink until the moisture is gone. You can speed the drying by directing a torch or heat gun into the crevice to remove as much of the moisture as possible and reapply a waterproof sealant to the sink. Silicone is recommended. This will not completely remove the danger of corrosion but will slow it down.

If the crack on the sink rail is large enough to see a gap between the pieces, a repair must be performed by an experienced stone restoration professional. The process for this typically includes filling the crack with a flowing epoxy, grinding the surface flat, and filling again with aesthetic adhesive so the appearance blends with the rest of the counter.

For more information or to talk to an expert on granite repair, visit our web site at



Answered 2 years ago by TedMcFadden

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