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Question DetailsAsked on 2/27/2016

Cost to hook up gas dryer next to kitchen gas line (open air, in garage, no existing valve)

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4 Answers

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1
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Oh, I won't deny that you see it all the time, even though the requirement has been in the building code since about the late 60's or early 70's, as I recall - though at some point it went from 12" from floor to pedestal/platform height, to 18" from floor to ignitiion source - which might be an inch or few above the platform height. Ignition source is generally considered to be any electric motor, gas flame, or electrical switch or solenoid.


This is a national building and fire code requirement, so only those very few areas that do not endorse the general codes or have done an applicable amendment would NOT have the requirement - which means very few because all 50 states plus the territories have endorsed the International Building Code, 49 states plus the territories the International ResidentialL Building Code, and 42 states plus some territories the International Fire Code - that does not leave many where they do NOT apply.


This is a common sense limitation - because paints or chemicals or fuels stored in garage and leaking or corroding through the bottom othe container or knocked over in a tornado or hurricane or earthquake, lawn and garden tools stored in a garage with fuel in them (though a bad practice), a leaking fuel line or tank on a car, or even the fuel expanding in the tank on a car that is filled with cold gas from a very cold in-ground tank and then heating up to heated garage temperature can cause overflow from the filler tube. I have seen a couple of houses that went up this way because of lack of platform or pedestal under appliances in the garage - needlessly. The raised platform does not prevent an explosion, but at least gives the fumes (which for gasoline and diesel and most paints and solvents are heavier than air) a place to accumulate and hopefully leak out around/under the garage door. Of course, a major leak can still build up high enough to cause an explosion, but with any luck you will come and go from the garage in time to smell it before an explosive level of vapors reaches a combustion source.

Answered 3 years ago by LCD

0
Votes

The actual gas hookup probably around $200-250 range to tee off the existing line and put in a connection valve. However, in garage the washer and dryer will have to be up on an 18" pedestal by code for explosion risk reduction (gasoline fumes risk) - that can run another $150-200 typically. And you did not say anything about electric connection or dryer venting.


You did not say anything about the washer - it has to be on pedestal too which might mean (especially with a top-loader or rear control one) a bulky platform to stand on to use it, which your garage might not have room for. Plus while running electric and water lines should not be too tough, getting to a suitable drain can be expensive at times - not unusual for a washer/dryer install in the garage to run in the $1000 range all told. Sometimes even quite a bit more if nasty dryer vent run, if concrete has to be opened up to access the sewer line, if electric panel has to be upgraded to handle electric dryer (not your case), if sewer line is overhead (commonly in basements) so a lift pump has to be used, etc.

Answered 3 years ago by LCD

0
Votes

ps I should add that I currently have an electric dryer set up (with 240V power and vent); the gas line to the kitchen happens to pass right there; also, the washer- all set up- is 10' away; and everything is above ground and up to CA code.

Answered 3 years ago by casalingo

0
Votes

OK - regardless of whether above or below ground, if in garage ALL possible sources of combustion (which includes all gas and electric appliances) have to be at least 18" off the ground.


Your 220V outlet will not work for most gas dryers - almost all use 110V power for the controls and motor, and with newer washers running them both off the same circuit may or may not be a good idea because some newer washers use a lot of power. Your electrician would have to tell you whether he can just tap off the outlet at the washer to put another outlet near the dryer (extension cord to outlet not a legal setup), or whether he will have to pull power from somewhere else. This is the sort of thing that starts adding to the cost of a washer/dryer move.


You did not say anything about the dryer vent - but if garage is at or above ground, presumably should not be hard to run ducting out the wall somewhere - just be sure it is put legal distance from electrical meter, gas meter, generator, and any doors or windows or air intakes or exhaust flues for furnace or such. Distance from each varies depending on what code your locality is using - commonly 5 feet from vents and windows and generator and such (any place where undesirable air exchange or short cicuiting of the exhaust could take place), and from 3-10 feet from gas and electric meter depending on locale. Typically 3 feet from any other utility box like telephone too.


Also be sure the dryer vent does not come out under anything that will be damaged by the moisture in the dryer air - coming out under a porch or deck or even right at wall surface can cause moisture damage over the long term.

Answered 3 years ago by LCD

0
Votes

Thank you. I'll have to check locally about the ground clearance requirement, since I've seen many garages with washer/dryer setups and not one had them off the ground.

Answered 3 years ago by casalingo




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