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Question DetailsAsked on 2/1/2017

Cost to remove the center column of a two car garage and replace the two doors with one in our single story house..

our home was built in 2001, we have 2 garage doors, it is a single story home. with both doors and the center column we are unable to put our truck in the garage. What would the cost be to change it to a single door garage?

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3 Answers


Hi, there can be many variables to this project.

Simple first: It is on the NON load bearing end of the house,(gable end) installing double micro laminate beam and cripples to span the distance, patch in drywall, siding, etc. and installing new garage door. Without door, approx. $2400 would be a fair price. Door prices for your new opening of approx. 16' range from $600-$1100 depending on So with door installation and work performed expect $3000+. This is the professional price. There are A LOT of guys, not companies, that would do it for $1500. My advice is to steer clear of clearance priced contractors. They don't possess the skills or knowledge to perform your project and you WILL regret it.

If it is on the load bearing(gutter side) side of house: There is more labor involved and someone with the correct knowledge and/or experience with this type of project. Materials will be close to the same cost and material. So I would say that an extra $500-$1500 would be a close evaluation.

Keep in mind that if this is a brick house the price and methods will have to change. There will be concrete or black top to be patched in most likely where center column is removed. New metal work/trim around opening and garage door seals will also need done.


Answered 3 years ago by Eliteservices


The first answer is a good one - and properly makes the point that you want not only a contractor to do this work, but one who can do it without causing damage (or collapse) of your house in the process. Here are some previous similar questions with answers FYI also -

Answered 3 years ago by LCD


The other comment addressed the "load-bearing" versus "non-load bearing" issue - generally speaking (there are too many different roof and framing variations of course to make a universal statement) and about the "gable end" [the peaked end] normally being non-load bearing. That means if the roof trusses or rafter ends come out over the garage door, that wall is bearing major roof load. This might be the case on two opposite sides of the garage, or with many multi-gabled roof three or four sides of the garage can be load-bearing. If there is another story to the house above the garage (so it is a "tuck-under" garage), if the ends of those floor joists come out on that same wall as the garage door, then again it is a load-bearing wall.

If the ends of roof framing or overlying floor framing come out over the garage door, changing to a two-car door configuration can range from simple to complex - depending on HOW those framing members transfer their load to the beams.

1) Simplest if they sit on top of it and any overlying wall sits on top of them (so normal wall bears on plywood flooring nailed down to the top of floor joists which then sit on the beam), so the floor joists can all be temporary propped up with a temporary studwall or posts and beams to carry the floor and all overlying loads.

2) Gets messier when the wall or roof framing bears on the beam directly because it can be hard to get in "under" the wall or framing to prop it up, especially with some of the exotic trusses made these days which have narrow bearing points and no easy way to pick up their load other than at those bearing points. You do NOT want to be holding a truss up by its upper chord at a wall - it is designed for the bottom o the truss to carry the load - I have seen trusses (and rafters) torn apart by people trying to prop a roof up using the rafters or upper chords and tear the framing apart because the connections may not be designed for upward lift at that point - just downward gravity bearing loads.

3) Messiest is usually when the joists or trusses or rafters are "bearing" on the side of the door beams - either in pockets (usually only in much older buildings) or with joist hangers - because each joist or rafter than has to be individually supported and then cut away from the beam.

4) Brick and stone walls, including ones with real brick or stone facades, are also complex - because they can tolerate very little movement in the process before they exhibit serious cracking and/or detachment from the wall. Sometimes in those cases the original beams are not taken out, but are laminated from the outside and inside with new beams or engineered trusses or solid steel plates bolted through them to carry the load, then the middle support post removed after the new support system is in place. This method is also used at times on tall buildings (like over 3 stories) and some houses with unusual architecture-caused framing oddities

One thing to remember - almost ALL exterior walls are load bearing, carrying at least the weight of that end of the building walls and siding, and sometimes a joist or rafter-bay width worth of overlying floor load and roof load as well. So you can't just take out the existing beams and center post and put in a new one - you have to temporarily support that wall during the work with posts and spreader beams or such. you do NOT at ANY time during the process want a 16-20 foot wide opening in the wall without support - can turn a moderately priced improvement job into a major or potentially catastrophic failure repair.

And be aware in almost all code jurisdictions this is considered structural modification whether it is technically a "load-bearing" wall or not, so requires replacement beam and temporary support plans from a Structural Engineer to get a permit - and also those can provide the structural part of the scope of work for contractors to bid on, and the successful bidder to build to. Many contractors will handle getting the plans if you desire - just be sure it is a reputable firm doing it, not just the contractor himself. In many jurisdictions a general contractor is allowed to design and build up to two-story and 4-level splits, and up to 4-unit apartment and condo buildings WITHOUT an architect or engineer - regardless of whether they really have the expertise or not. I would not trust most to be able to properly design such a modification on many homes unless they have a licensed professional civil/structural engineer on board doing it.

Answered 3 years ago by LCD

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