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Question DetailsAsked on 8/18/2016

Cost to replace a freezer fan in a GE bottom freezer

I have a GE Café three door refrigerator. The refrigerator portion is not cooling. The freezer is fine. The cold air vents on top are not blocked. My thought that the fan that blows cold air from the freezer to the refrigerator has failed? I looks fairly easy to access but what is an average cost to replace the fan, parts and labor?

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Open reefer door for a minute or so, or turn thermostat setting for REEFER part to full cool setting (remembering what your normal setting is) - if fan does not turn on, likely fan motor or thermostat problem.

Since you said freezer is operating normally, I will not discuss possibility of fan being frozen up - but eyeball the an vent openings for ice (or spilled ice cube tray water when ncould have frozen the fan up), or for plastic food wrappings blocking the air passage or that might have gotten pulled in and blocked the fan. Fan blockage will sometimes burn it out, but commonly they are self-limiting motors that cannot burn out if stalled and not turning - free up the blockage and it may work fine. if blocked.

Could not easily find diagram of how yours is built without a model number, but if normal type - there is a fan housed in a bulge-out shroud on the back of the freezer, usually tapered to bottom and off-centered with air intake usually at top, which moves cold freezer air down into the reefer part to cool it when the reefer thermostat is calling for cooling. Assuming the thermostat is not the problem (can check with a volt-ohm meter on the leads to fan motor by moving thermostat setting from max to minimum temp to turn it off and on), usually there are a half dozen or less screws holding the cover shroud on (some you just squeeze the sides carefully together to disengage tabs holding it to the freezer wall, som older ones have hooked tabs in the back that disengage when you lift the shroud up), after pulling that off (with power disconnected of course) usually just a molded wire connector (may or may not have a tab you have to depress or lift up to unlock the connector) or a couple of lead wires with push-on connectors to the motor, and a couple of screws holding the fan motor to the freezer back wall. Be sure to keep track of which color connector went where if not a uni-directional multiwire connector which can only go on one way. Screws are usually all same length short sheet metal screws, but if different lengths do a skethc of which go where - you do NOT want to puncture a refrigerant line putting them back in by putting a long screw in a short hole. ... ... Replacement fans typically about $15-25 from appliance parts stores, SearsAtHome, Whirlpool parts and sometimes for most common ones at home improvement box stores. ... ... Some replacement fans come with new individual wires and new connector leads so you have to snip off the original OEM connector and wire nut or crimp connector the new lead wires to the original wires to hook it back up. Of course OEM fans usually will take original connectors, but not always as universal-fit fans are sometimes provided in lieu of out-of-production OEM parts. So - pay attention to what color connector or lead went to which fan connection - commonly does not matter, but does with some motors. ... ... To have an Appliance Repair - Large (your Search the List category) tech do the repair - probably minimum service call charge of about $75-150 plus about $50 for the part if you are certain the fan is what is bad. Otherwise can be same minimum charge or half again as much or double, depending on company rules regarding jobs needing one trip to diagnose, then another to return to put in the part after he gets at shop or it comes in FedEx as applicable. Usually does NOT return same day - usually next day even if part is in the shop supplies (he picks up parts before he heads out in the morning). ... ... So you may be stuck for several days with using a lot of bagged ice or dry ice to keep the reefer part cool. Clear top shelf of food and put the ice there (easy if using dry ice - you don't want overcooling) so cold air drops down over the food - and of course minimize opening the door. And if using regular bagged ice, put in a pan so as it melts leakage through holes in the bag won't go all over the place. And use a reefer thermometer to be sure upper parts and door items are being kept cool enough - generally below 40F is considered safe. And of course, without the fan, bottom items will be coldest, higher shelves better for veggies and such, and door may or may not stay cool enough for safety. Of safer (especially for dangerous foods like made-up salads, egg-containing foods, etc) borrow reefer space for items you don't need for a couple of days in a neighbor's reefer or put in cooler chest with ice and thermometer. Cooler chest is also MUCH better safety wise for items you need periodically (condiments and next meal items) because when you open it the cold air does not pour out the bottom - it stays pretty well in place so you don't lose most of the cold air every time you open the reefer. plus you can put a day's worth of food items in the cooler in one reefer opening, keeping the number of reefer openings to a bare minimum.

Answered 3 years ago by LCD


Argghhh - the Angies List program is stripping out paragraphs again - everywhere I put ... ... (trying to force blank lines) there should be a couple of Returns - for readability copy the text and paste into a word or text program and put a couple of returns at each ... ...

Answered 3 years ago by LCD

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