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Just cut the wall and install.. No framing ? No to trim ? Moldings sheet rock dry wall paint prep clean up delivery debris removed none of that ?

NewWindowMan is on the ball as usual - since you are cutting into a wall, you are talking new rough opening so new header (and rough opening framing if brick or stone wall) and bottom plate treatment, water barrier for the rough opening, probably porch or deck waterproofing dripedge or water barrier, flashing/water barrier interface with the siding and underlying water barrier, interior (and exterior trim/brickmold if it did not come on the door), possible drywall work depending on circumstances in creating the rough opening, hopefully dripedge trim over the top, sill, door and sill water drip lip, maybe door seal and/or sweeper if not on door as it comes, possible step up or down transition - and finishing the door if not prefinished in a color they like.

Can run from a few hundred range for a VERY simple situation where the door opening is located for easiest rough opening / header construction, to $1000 or more depending on situation. And you did not say if this is a mandoor or sliding glass/french patio door - that makes a ton of difference too. It is VERY common for installation of an economy entry door to run 2-5 tiomes as much as the door cost - because it costs almost as much to put in an economy door as a fancy one of same size.

Here are some links to similar questions with answers FYI:

BTW - can't imagine how this got into Siding and Insulation categories - should be in Home > Window and Doors - which is where you can find, under Browse Projects, at lower left, a number of previous questions about typical door and installation costs for both mandoors and sliding glass and french patio doors.

In rereading my answer after it posted, I noticed you said in "solid wall". If you mean in brick or stone or concrete rather than just in a studwall with no current opening there, bump that cost up quite a bit - because other than having to go to more trouble to trace the location of rebar and utility runs, and having to cut and splice rebar, you have to put in "frame-out" support around the rough opening - typically steel channel stock bolted or welded in-place into a frame to support the brick or stone (which may, especially for larger doors, requires temporary support of the wall), grout that in with non-shrink grout, then frame in the door from there. The Window and Door category at lower left also has some answers on that case - several hundred more minimum typically in facade brick/stone walls, can be quite a few hundreds to as many as $1000+ in cast concrete if there is reinforcing or utilities that have to be relocated or structurally relocated/spliced into new reinforcing.

One other consideration is if there are structural loads coming down concentrated over the new opening - like support columns or kingstuds or such from a door or window overhead - if those are coming down over the new opening, that can introduce issues both with temporary support during construction so you don't leave those supports - unsupported; and also requiring more structural analysis and design to transfer those loads properly around the new opening, which would usually increase the required strength for the header and maybe supporting side members of the new opening.

Technically, per code, any such opening up of an existing wall which removes or cuts through studs or framing should be designed by a Structural Engineer. Many contractors do it without an engineers's design, using standard framing tables of member sizes, if there is no overlying opening or columns in the area, and not more than one overlying floor above the opening - but if in doubt best to be safe rather than sitting on the floor with the roof rafters touching your head.