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Question DetailsAsked on 9/21/2016

How much to convert my current screened in patio to a 3 season room?

space has tiled/concrete floor (slab) and a roof but the existing walls and screens must all be replace. How much would it cost to replace it with a 3 season room?

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1 Answer


Assuming your patio has a proper foundation (legal for your soil conditions and frost penetration depth), commonly in the $80-150/SF ballpark range depending largely on the structural changes needed to put in walls and windows as opposed to screening, whether roof is up to code for a habitated structure as opposed to a patio structure (which sometimes is less stringent on wind and snow loads).

A LOT depends on your local code requirements or amendments regarding 3-season rooms - because under the general building code if the room is not heated year around (when temps get into freezing range) then it has to have a full depth house foundation. But, in some areas with little or no frost duration or depth, 3-season operation is allowed with slab-on-grade or even concrete block patios with just concrete pad or pier wall/roof foundations - though in that case generally it is not allowed to be connected to the hosue rigidly - a flexible weatherseal connection is used at the house connection to prevent any movement of the 3-season room due to frost heave or soil movement from tearing up the house.

If that is allowed, you might be more in the $50-100/SF range in all but very high-priced areas where it might reach $150/SF for normal construction, assuming the roof is adequate as is. Of course, use high-end materials and a very large number of windows and such and you can add $50-1200/SF to that typically.

Be aware that if you do have freezing conditions and do not heat it in the winter, or if you have expansive soil and do not have a full foundation under it, you increase the chance of windows and doors jamming and even window breakage due to ground movement. This can be mitigated with flexible butyl rubber or similar mounting methods to provide a moveable yet still weathertight connection to the structure, but the risk remains if you don't have a full foundation under it.

Your starting point in almost all areas would be an Architect for plans and specs and to help with permitting issues - some General Contractors will handle getting and dealing with the architect directly as part of their fee while others want you to bring them completed plans and specs (which also make it easier to get comparable bids from contractors, so to be preferred in all but the simplest cases).

Answered 4 years ago by LCD

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