Ask Your Question

Angie's List Answers is the trusted spot to ask home improvement and health questions and get answers from service companies, health providers and consumers. For ratings and reviews on companies in your area, search Angie's List.

 
 
or
Submit
Top 30 Days Experts
Rank Leader Points*
1 kstreett 240
2 Guest_9020487 110
3 Guest_9190926 105
4 GoldenKid 100
5 mygfcxx1 95
6 ahowell 95
7 KnowledgeBase 95
8 skbloom 80
9 Guest_98024861 70
10 Guest_9311297 70

*Updates every 4 hours

Browse Projects By Category

Question DetailsAsked on 8/1/2013

How much would it cost to run a 220 volt line in my garage?

Need to put one in my garage. My outside box does not have any extra lines

Do you have the same question? Follow this Question


2 Answers

0
Votes

What amperage? How far? Inside walls and between floors or surface mount conduit? Can the box handle the additional breaker and load? It could be a few hundred dollars or well over $1000, depending on what has to be done to make sure it is proper and safe. Cost factors include the possibly a new breaker box needed, wiring size, amount of drywall damage if you want the wiring hidden, distance of run, and maybe even new service if you only have 100 amps to the house and are already maxed out. Call a few local electricians and get bids to do the work. They will have to see the job to know what needs to be included.


Todd Shell

Todd's Home Services

San Antonio, TX

Answered 6 years ago by Todd's Home Services

0
Votes

Your outside box would not have extra lines. Your choices are to pull the 220 over a double-breaker in your existing breaker box (if it has capacity), or run a new feed line from the main breaker box (usually outside) by the meter on modern construction, to a new box inside the garage.

I assume you are installing this either for a hot water heater or electric furnace or heater, or to run large power tools like a table saw or welder.

A couple of suggestions, having seen numerous problems with this in the past, as well as in my own power-tool haven:

If going to be high-amperage for more than a few seconds, like a welder, heater, furnace, planer, or table or radial saw, I would suggest adding a new panel rather than installing in your current one. These type of devices generate a lot of heat in the wiring and breaker because of the sustained high amperage, so can overheat a normal breaker box if installed there. Go with the $50-100 extra and add an oversize auxiliary box dedicated to these high-amp devices. Also reduces the risk of fire due to heating of the main feed wire into the box - a couple of my neighbors have had this problem, resulting in fires because they used the range and clothes dryer and shop tools at the same time, or range and welder at same time.

If going with surface-mount cable (in a protective race) to avoid tearing into the walls, be SURE the cable is rated for use in the type of conduit or protective tray it is run in - if you run regular cable in a conduit or tray it will overheat, and that is a violation of the electrical code.

If running a sustained-load device like welder or heater, a high-horsepower power tool like a >2 HP saw or planer, or possibility of more than one device at a time, I would seriously recommend upsizing the wiring one or two sizes - little additional cost, but saves on damaging heating of the motor when starting, and provides full-power to devices like planers and saws and welders that otherwise would lose a lot of their power with a longish run. While it might meet code, that does not mean it carries all the power the tool wants to pull under full load - especially for saws, planers, and welders which draw full load for a minute or more at a time.

Answered 6 years ago by LCD




Related Questions


Terms Of Use
|
Privacy Policy