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Question DetailsAsked on 3/24/2016

How to cover carpenter gap on roof between roof deck and fascia?

I recently had roof replaced and did not have drip edge installed. My issue since not on contract and I did not check-Life lesson. What are some solutions to cover the gap between the roof deck and the fascia board. I don't have gap all around just in some areas. I have gutters all the way around, shingles overhang ~1-1.5" (get good flow to gutters). Main goal is to keep out critters and cover the exposed areas Some solutions I thought of we retrofit drip edge-challenge is to lift up shingles and hold in place, Also dowes bottom edge go in front of or behind gutter? Use a backing (screen or fibergalss) in larger gap areas with foam seal, roofing seal or other paint. Any other suggestions

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2 Answers


I recently found out that I had a carpenter's "construction" gap at my roof-line as well. I had no idea.....until I found snake xxxx in my garage. I could not imagine why I would have a snake in my house. Well, the opening also gave invitation to deer mice coming into my house. In my basement, I have a drop celling. When the Animal Control Experts came to my house, they revealed all of this to me. The snake came for the mice and will continue to come and go as long as there is a food source. We still do not know for sure if it is poison or not because the Expert didn't locate it. Along the opening, you can put Z Flashing. In other areas, use hardware cloth and foam. Even if you have good screens at your gables, it is good to add hardware cloth on the inide attic. Any crack....ANY a welcome for unwanted critters to invade your home. Often they have been there for a long time before you even realize it.

I hope this helps.

Answered 3 years ago by patriciahw


patriciahw has good suggestion about hardware cloth - regular window or bug screening mice/rats can chew through and larger rodents (squirrels, coons, etc) can tear/pull away. Hardware cloth is a heavier screen (not a "cloth" at all - it is galvanized wire mesh - available from insect mesh opening size up through about 1/2" opening) - for insects and larger of course you want bug screening size, 1/4" opening is normal size for rodents and such. If protecting against larger mammals should be fastened with washer-header screws or nails or heavy duty power stapler, not just a regular hand-held staple gun - they can pull the screening loose from normal staples gun staples.

patricia - when you talked about a construction gap on your roof sheathing - if you meant the slot in the ridge sheathing to let air escape through a ridge vent, that should not be closed up - though can be covered with hardware cloth to keep critters out if your ridge vent does not do that (as it should). If you had rodents and snake in the lower house levels (basement, garage) I would be looking for openings around cables/pipes coming into the house, unscreened vents, holes at the foundation/wall interface, or gaps at the garage door (which can be sealed with rubber sill seals and weatherstripping), because it would be pretty unusual for a snake to be on the roof in the first place, and more so for it to make it down to the lowest level from the attic without being detected.

Regarding the original question about the sheathing being short at the fascia board, if that is what you meant - you should find out if this is an airvent (assuming you have no or near-zero roof overhang) - some zero overhang roofs (though all designers who design such roofs should be hung by their toes from the non-existent eaves) use a gap right behind the fascia as an eave vent, so you do not want to block that with a solid filler - so hardware cloth would work as an entry barrier. (Also comes in rolls 6, 9, 12 wide for use in blocking eave gaps like that, as well as in 3 and 4 foot wide large rolls whjich most hardware stores sell by the foot.)

If you are talking about short sheathing on an overhang, where that gap is not serving as an air vent, certainly the next time you reroof that should be filled in with sheathing and water barrier over that. It is possible to get in underneath the shingles on the bottom few rows and remove the nails with diagonal cutters, then slip in a strip of same-thickness roof sheathing (adhered to the rafters with construction adhesive or extra-length shingle nails) - with dripedge flashing put over it (placed under the water barrier) as applicable. The drip edge should terminate in/over the gutter so any drips land in the gutter - preferably with the bottom of the drip edge about 1/2 down below the top of the gutter so in winds the drips do not blow back against the fascia and cause rot. Obviously if retrofitted, the nails holding the flashing need to go through the "bottom" starter row of shingles - but be placed under the bottom overlapping row so they do not become leak points.

Answered 3 years ago by LCD

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