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Question DetailsAsked on 11/30/2016

How much time and labor cost it would take to Recess a gas pipe outlet in kitchen under the gas range.

So the wall oven is sticking out by an inch because of the gas pipe outlet. Outlet seems to be coming from the wall (not from floor or ceiling). The outlet likely need an angle connector but I am not sure.

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2 Answers

Voted Best Answer

Here is a previous to a similar situation -

normal cost area, I would expect not more than maybe up to $50 parts (may need new gas shuoff valve and flex tubing for modern code compliance), and about $100-200 range IF he can just remove it, put on a 90, put valve back on and you are good - more like $200-300 if he has to go into the wall to replumb the pipe - not including having a handyman or such come and repair and repaint the drywall/plaster in that case.

But first - find your owners manual (or download from manufacturer website - model number usually on frame visible with drawer or oven door open, on inside lip of oven door, or on bottom drawer on its side) and find out the required back clearance. Few ranges can safely be pushed back tight to the back wall (or side walls), so that gas pipe stickout might not be what is limiting how far back it can go. Also, modern ranges require anti-tip clips on the back feet so it cannot tip forward with weight (like a full turkey in roasting pan or someone leaning on it cleaning it) on the open oven door, and those might limit how far back it can go too, though if that is the problem you might be able to find another type that does not limit how far back it will go - but might take a bit of looking (and cost if contractor is doing the looking). 1 inch stickout from the cabinets is not at all unusual - it is actually pretty rare for ranges to be flush with the front of the cabinets unless they were custom-built.

Plumber would be the person to do this in most areas - or Pipe Fitter in a few eastern states, but a plumber should be able to tell you if he can legally do gas pipe work or not (most larger plumbing outfits in states requiring pipe fitters for gas piping work have one on staff).

Answered 3 years ago by LCD


Thanks LCD, wanted to add a pic if it helps to narrow down the work needed.

Answered 3 years ago by Ajaiswal


Photo helps - not sure, but it looks like there is enough pipe sticking out to remove the coupling if needed and install a flush-mount appliance gas shutoff valve (which it does not look like you have there now - but might be the gray end of the flex tubing has a shutoff valve with the handle hidden on top) - could not find a clear picture of a flush-mount gas shutoff valve to show you. Because the gas pipe appears to come up at an angle, might be just a simple 90 degree shutoff valve would work put in place of the coupling - would leave the flex gasline lying right along the wall, so maybe 1 inch minimum clearance from back of stove and wall when pushed all the way in - probably less clearance than the electric connection needs.

BTW - if tight conditions - the flex tubing will have to go into the appliance via a 90 also, otherwise you need 4-6 inches for the tubing to make the turn into the back of the range. Not a big thing - should be in the plumber's fittings box, but if you mention it before he comes (about possible tight backwall clearance) he should bring several with him and avoid having to make an expensive parts run.

Note the severe bend in the yellow gas tubing at the upper left - that is sharp enough to break the spiral lock metal flex tubing inside the plastic covering, so that flex tubing should be replaced as well as a shutoff valve mounted at the wall.

Then what appears to be a gas regulator (aluminum colored, partly hidden) at the upper right I am not sure on - does not look like part of the cooktop, so if you have unregulated or higher thasn normal gas pressure coming in at that pipe (which you normally should not have) then you may have some replumbing to be done where that line comes off the meter to reduce the line pressure to the household supply pressure it should be - commonly a very small portion of a psi pressure. Could be this was a DIY job or illegal connection from the way it was done and the possible regulator. Or, if a high gas demand stovetop, might have needed higher pressure natural gas from the meter than the normal 7 inches of water column (about 1/4 psi) or 10-11 inches for propane, which is then being stepped down at the appliance - you do see that at times, especially with gas grills (including stovetop grills) and many commercial gas grilltops which might run at 2 psi or so. Could also be an LP/Propane gas unit, which normally has a regulator at the appliance.

Also of course the wiring to the conduit at the bottom - DEFINITELY not to code and bad news if the stove is pushed back tight to that uncovered box. Should be properly wired and boxed - or since that seems to be electric range wiring maybe, might just be changed to a legal range outlet ready for the next resident. Get a cover for it so it does not get all crudded up with lint and grease when not in use.

So - same answer on the labor, and parts probably in the $50 or maybe a bit more range with the valve and flex tubing - NOT including replumbing at the meter or elsewhere in the house if that is a regulator there reducing from supply pressure to low pressure, which would commonly add a few more hundred unless an illegal connection.

Still be sure to check the required range backwall clearance - and I like to put a stop block nailed to the floor or wall at the back so the range can't be pushed back enough to crimp the gas tubing or damasge the electric outlets.

Answered 3 years ago by LCD

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