Ask Your Question

Angie's List Answers is the trusted spot to ask home improvement and health questions and get answers from service companies, health providers and consumers. For ratings and reviews on companies in your area, search Angie's List.

Top 30 Days Experts
Rank Leader Points*
1 kstreett 240
2 Guest_9020487 110
3 Guest_9190926 105
4 GoldenKid 100
5 ahowell 95
6 KnowledgeBase 95
7 skbloom 80
8 Guest_98024861 70
9 Guest_9311297 70
10 Guest_9400529 70

*Updates every 4 hours

Browse Projects By Category

Question DetailsAsked on 8/5/2016


Do you have the same question? Follow this Question

1 Answer


Is tghis a trick question ? Because if "exterior shifters", whatever that is, does that not mean they are external to the transmission, so replaceable from the outside (maybe after draining the fluid) ?

Can't give you a specific answer because it depends on your makes/model, but here are some thoughts that might help - of course, there is always an exception.

Many companies make/sell 6 speed sequential transmissions - some "electroshift" or similar which are actually a manual transmission with electric shifter, some true manual - and available for motorcycles too,so it all depends on your brand. There are also fake manual transmissions, which is basically a floor shifter which looks and behaves like a manual transmission (and in at least one brand I have heard even comes with a fake manual clutch which is just a spring-loaded pedal connected to nothing) but is actually an automatic transmission with electrical shifting control.

I would google a search for your brand and check in enthusiast blogs for that car make/model and transmission for specifics for your case.

Basically, there are four major components to a geared transmission - whether manual or automatic or a hybrid:

1) the shifter - column mounted or floor mounted, which may be connected by electrical wiring, by a cable or rod linkage, or by mechanical connection to the transmission.

2) a shifting arm, hydraulic valves, or electric solenoids or combination thereof which move the internal shifting mechanism.

3) the shift forks, bars, or hydraulic actuators in the transmission which are moved by the shifter mechanism to cause the gear shift

4) the gears (which may be synchronized for cleaner shifting) in the transmission which slide to a different position to cause the gear ratio change - or in infinitely variable ratio transmissions cones which move to engage at a different orientation or radius.

The first is what you put your hand on - on the column or floor mounted, and is basically just a handle - though if it's stops or detents get out of alignment can cause misoperation or the wrong gear for the indication. Fixable without touching the transmission, or by adjusting the linkage to 2) above but almost always totally external to the transmission (though may, like with traditional floor mount shifter, have to be unbolted and removed to repair as it constitutes the top cover of the transmission).

The second can be external - bolted onto the side of the transmission, be part of the floor shifter 1) like in true manuals, or be internal to the transmission - sometimes in that case having a separate removal location or port, sometimes you can access and remove as a block by dropping a pan on the transmission (like with true automatics commonly), sometimes requires removal of entire transmission. A truly manual shifting arm is (with column-mounted shifter or some floor-mounted ones) a shift arm external to the transmission connected to a shaft passing into the transmission, true manual floor-mounted shifter it is part of the shifter unit, others are internal. If external commonly the shift position (when the shift occurs relative to the shifter position) can be adjusted outside the transmission.

The third same as above - in a true manual usually the shift forks or bars are part of the shifting mechanism in the floor shifter and can be adjusted by unbolting and removing that, with semi-manual or automatic systems is almost always inside the transmission and may or may not be accessible and removeable from the outside, but commonly not and requires transmission removal to repair. May be adjustable to some extent by removing a coverplate or pan on non-manual systems.

The fourth - the gears - basically require total removal and disassembly of the transmission to repair.

Depending on what your problem is, and whether manual or semi-manual or an automatic with floor shifter than makes you feel like you are driving a manual (which may be totally electrically controlled), your transmission may or may not be fixable without removing it and tearing it down.

With a true, totally mechanical floor-mounted shifter, mis-alignment of gears (not being in right gear or being in two at same time when the shifter says it is in a specific gear), or loss of the "detents" which hold it in the selected gear till shifted again, can normally be repaired by just removing the shifter from the top of the transmission.

Synchronizer failure, gear or bearing grinding or whining, total failure to engage a gear usually a teardown job.

For a "fake" manual, actually an automatic transmission with floor shifter, a slipping transmission would commony be due to low fluid, hydraulic pump failure or band / clutch slippage - sometimes accessible through access plate, bands generally adjustable same way - otherwise generally a teardown job.

I realize this did not directly answer your question, but best I could do with the info available - and hoep I did not bore you with stuff you already knew.

Of course,the definitve answer would be to buy a shop manual for your car - typically about $75-125 from the manufacturer or dealer.

Answered 3 years ago by LCD

Related Questions

Terms Of Use
Privacy Policy