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Question DetailsAsked on 8/25/2017

I had my driveway paved 3 weeks ago. Is it ok to seal it with SS-1 now?

The contractor left footprints and roller lines and it seems the driveway is "pebbly" in many places,, and wants to seal it now as he says that will take care of these problems.

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2 Answers


ARgghhh - Angies List computer is taking out the paragraph breaks AGAIN !!! I am putting in ========= divider marks at each p[aragraph break location.


No - 3 weeks is way too soon - the asphalt will still be bleeding oil, so the seal coat will peel and get gummy, at leat in locations. Here are a couple of previous similar questions with answers in more detail:


======== ======== Footprints should not be there (assuming you mean impressions/indentations, not just dusty marks which will weather off), nor significant roller lines (both those indicate inadequate number of roller compaction passes or done after ti has cooled too much) - the pebbly areas are exposed aggregate which will be pervious until properly sealed. Commonly at lane seams and at places where they shovelled in extra mix to fill a low spot after the paving machine was done so it tends to be more aggregate and too cold for the oil to seal the voids during rolling. All signs of a poorly done job or accepting asphalt that was too cool or sat too long before placement - I would be looking for a partial refund if I were you, because about the only fix for the footprints and roller marks (if vertical offsets rather than a raised seam which can be ground off) is a thin topping coat overlay of finer aggregate asphalt - and given the quality your job sounds like I doubt the contractor is going to do any better with that that the first coat. ======= Also - SS-1 ? That is (at least in my experience - a Texas area product) a tack coat/primer material, NOT a sealer. It is very slow setting, designed to NOT dry quickly - the exact opposite of wht you need for a driveway. You best sealer is a hot-applied (around 300+ degrees) coal tar or (if avail;able in your area) better a true asphalt (not an emulsion) - lasts MANY times longer than emulsions, is more waterproof - at about twice the cost typcially for a normal driveway size. ======= Also sounds like, after all is said and done, time for an appropriate truthful review on the contractor sounds to me like the typical small marginally proficient asphalt contractor, not a truly professional firm.

Answered 3 years ago by LCD


Reread my response to you, as a possible reference for another similar question.

Noticed I did not really fully address the sealer as a repair for you situation issue:

1) the pebbly or "porous" mix, which is usually caused by loose aggregate either analanching down at the edge of a paver pass so shows up as a porous strip down the middle of a ddrive along the typically about 8 foot wide lane passes, or by raking out of asphalt to fill low spots during the final layout and rolling process. This loose aggregate is low on fines and oil so it commonly does not roll out with a smooth finish like the remainder of the drive. A good quality asphalt or tar sealer will fill this OK and work well to keep water from getting in there and further breraking up the aggregate mix. The cheaper water emulsion sealers will fill the voids, but commonly leave a gummy sludge in the voids which will accumulate dirt and become muddy and brownish for its life. Not the best solution but will go a long ways toward protecting against water infiltration.

2) the ridges sealer will not do anything for - trying to fill in along the ridges or step-ups from the roller will just leave a thick accumulation of sealer wjich will likely peel off onto your tires, and in many cases (especially with cold-applied products) stay tacky and sticky for a LONG time.

3) the footprints ditto - if more than just a minor impression which a tar or asphalt hot-applied sealer could fill, then a deeply impressed footprint (more than say 1/16" or so) it is likely to peel up onto tires or stay sticky for a long time.

For dressing out footprints and ridges and such there are sand-mix asphalt patch materials (no coarse aggregate) which will allow a thin overlay and if properly compacted on a cleaned surface should stick OK, but because they lack the coarse aggregage generally leave a significant "patch" appearance even if later sealed with the rest of the drive, and especially in hot areas (because of the higher oil content) commonly tend to peel up, especially in very thin (less than 3/16" or so) or very thick (over 1/2") applications.

Answered 3 years ago by LCD

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