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Question DetailsAsked on 9/16/2013

I have a problem with mushrooms growing in my yard. How can get rid them forever?

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3 Answers


Here is a similar question with answers -

The primary method is to reduce the moisture level to below that they need to survive, and remove leaf debris and such that keep them damp.

For small infestation, spray or dust with baking soda. For larger areas, dust with hydrated lime (NOT where little kids or puppies can get at it - will cause mild chemical burns on skin). Hydrated lime is NOT regular garden lime, which is just ground up limestone. It is the powdery white lime used in mortar mixes, and also in outhouses and such. Will kill lawn in high concentrations,, but it will fill back in.

You can also buy fungicides at hardware and home centers specifically for killing mushrooms, toadstools, wood molds and fungi, etc.

In the long run, you will only get rid of them by reducing the wetness and organic food - they usually grow over dead, decaying tree roots as a food source. If you live in an area that is basically dry in the summer, do infrequent deep watering rather than frequent shallow watering, so their area dries out between waterings.

Also, they like a more acidic soil, so adding ground limestone (garden lime) to your soil to get the pH above about 7.5 can help over the long term.

Answered 6 years ago by LCD


There is not a product that can control mushrooms. Mushrooms are a fungi that is caused by decaying organic matter in the soil. Oftentimes, this can be from old tree roots or even construction debris. Usually the mushrooms will "sprout" after a heavy rain and remain for a couple of days. You can mow over them or knock them over to speed up the drying process.

To fully remove mushrooms, you would need to remove the organic matter that is sprouting them. You would need to dig up the matter and replace the soil. This is not feasable in most instances and just living with them is the easiest to do.

Answered 3 years ago by rwar515


1) if they grow in lines in the yard (not necessarily perfectly straight) they are likely following old tree roots that are dead and providing the decaying organic matter needed for the fungus to thrive. Slicing the sod over that line with a shovel or edge trimmer, then peeling the sod back a bit and gently peeling back and pulling/digging the dead roots out can reduce that cause - a two-person job to do this.

2) generally, fungus prefers acidic soil and poor sod development - so promoting good lawn health and lushness and letting it grow longer (mow to 3 inches or so long) can help crowd the fungal growth out and also make for a healthier lawn.

3) check the pH of the soil with a DIY pH test kit - or take a sample to your local greenhouse for testing. If it is acidic (which mushrooms like), add garden lime to bring the pH up (to a higher number, or more basic) - takes a year or so for that to break down and change the pH. Grass likes soil at pH 6.5 and higher, mushrooms like lower a pH.

4) poorly aerated soil maintains the conditions fungal growth likes, so thatching and aerating your lawn (if it's conditions are such that it needs that) can reduce both the organic decaying growth the mushrooms like (thatch and leaf mulch) and provide the aeration and drying which inhibits fungal growth

5) for serious cases there are antifungal sprays and powders - though generally just spreading a dusting of hydrated lime directly on the mushroom (the white powder type used in outhouses and barns and in burying dead animals and such, not the gray powdered limestone spread on lawn to change the pH) does as well. Don't go real heavy - will leave a gooey white patch and a kill circle in the lawn. Pay attention to safety instructions when using - hazardous if gotten in eyes, and can irritate exposed skin and lungs - not real hazardous, probably not much more so than powdered laundry detergent expect if gotten in the eyes, just be careful - use rubber gloves, long sleeves, safety glasses, maybe a dust mask - and hand spread in small areas, not broadcast over large areas. And do not do at periods when the lawn is highly stressed - though mushroom growth usually occurs in prime lawn growing conditions - the wet season.

6) if you can increase sunlight that dries them out and kills them, so clearing low-growing branches and such that shades the lawn helps control them

7) do not mow in the leaves - the leaf mulch makes for prime growth conditions, and if in areas that form heavy thatch try collecting the cuttings rather than letting them accumulate, although tht does mean your lawn will then likely need fertilization to replace the nutrients you are permanently removing from the lawn environment.

8) improve drainage if a poorly drained area - they like constantly damp soil, so improving drainage helps reduce them

9) go with long-duration deep watering at greater intervals (a week or more apart typically) rather than frequent short waterings - this will help the lawn to dry out periodically which kill the fungus off, and is also better for the lawn as it promotes deep rooting.

10) in doing some testing on my lawns, I found that fall (right after first snow dusting, AFTER the lawn has stopped growing for the winter) fertilization with weed and feed fertilizer not only works WAYYYY better at supressing weed growth, but also reduces fungal growth. Better at weed suppression because the normal granular weed and feed fertilizer uses pre-emergent weed killer, so it is in the soil when the weeds try to grow in the spring - knocks them dead to the point I commonly have about 20-100 weeds to pull/dig from my entire lawn in a year - as opposed to the thousands of dandelions and chickweed and clover and such that lawns that weedkill in the spring or summer get. Why it reduces fungal growth may be related to the weedkiller, or maybe the iron and other metals included in the normal weed and feed mix.

11) use fertilizer with ammonium sulfate as the nitrogen component - that not only damages or kills most fungi, but also accelerates the natural decal of organic matter like leaf mold and thatch and such, thereby reducing the food available to feed the fungi.

12) if you have dense but small concentrated areas of fungi, sometimes the best measure is to dig up that area, root out any old dead wood or such that is there (commonly old decaying tree stumps or logs, which can cause round or linear concentrations of fungi), dig out the organic mat (typically an inch or so), then topsoil and reseed with grass seed. This is not to be confused with "fairy rings", which are basically a "mother" fungus which is expanding outwards in typcially a near perfect circle (see photos in article below) and grows larger each year as it depletes the food and spreads out looking for more.

13) sometimes they thrive where pets have deposited a pile, especially if not cleaned up daily - training the pet to go only one place can allevaite this cause.

14) probably most important - and contrary to the other comment - hand pluck the mushrooms (grab low down, pressing into the ground around the stem) to get the whole stem and cap as soon as they pop up and form a cap. Use latex kitchen gloves because some will irritate the skin or rarely form a serious skin response, also a few are medically dangerous. If you have a lot, I use a 13 gallon garbage bag and grab through the side of the bag near the top (using the bag itself as a glove) to pull the toadstool/mushroom - you can then just straighten the bag up and let go and let the mushroom drop into the bag, then move onto the next one. Very important - do NOT mow them down as the other comment suggest, because mowing them down spreads the spores all over the lawn - that is like intentionally seeding the lawn with mushrooms.

As for getting rid of them forever - that is not likely to happen. If you have a lot now, you are likely to always have a few, but using appropriate measures from the above list can certainly dramatically reduce their incidence.

Answered 3 years ago by LCD

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