Ask Your Question

Angie's List Answers is the trusted spot to ask home improvement and health questions and get answers from service companies, health providers and consumers. For ratings and reviews on companies in your area, search Angie's List.

Top 30 Days Experts
Rank Leader Points*
1 kstreett 240
2 Guest_9020487 110
3 Guest_9190926 105
4 GoldenKid 100
5 ahowell 95
6 KnowledgeBase 95
7 skbloom 80
8 Guest_98024861 70
9 Guest_9311297 70
10 Guest_9400529 70

*Updates every 4 hours

Browse Projects By Category

Question DetailsAsked on 8/24/2016

I need to remove old wood edging from my patio and re do the paving. Can anyone help?

Just bought a house. Patio is old. Not sure about cost. Willing to do the paving ourselves, but definitely need help removing the old wood (its hefty and attached with huge nails).

Do you have the same question? Follow this Question

2 Answers


Not sure if you mean "pavers" - paving stone/blocks - or asphalt paving. But contractors to do this include Landscaping - Hardscape (Search the List category) if pavers, or Driveways - Asphalt, if that. If amount of repaving is quite small - just basically replacing the wood with bagged readymix patch asphalt for instance, Handymen could probably do this also fine.

For DIY - couple of suggestions:

1) if pavers, try loosening up a central block or two (may require breaking with a sledge hammer) to open up a starting point, then disassemble the pavers from inside to outside - basically removing the blocks from the spikes rather than vice versa.

2) for pavers or paved/concrete patio, use a wide large metal cold chisel (about $10 - may crack or mar the edge of the patio) or hardwood wedges to drive between the patio and the edger strip to peel it away from the patio.

3) alternative to the wedges, or if the wood is wedged tight between the patio and asphalt paving, cut the spikes with a long metal-cutting blade in a sawzall - or better yet with an abrasive blade. Be sure to wet the wood periodically to stop fire, and be sure to treat the removed wood as potentially smoldering until thoroughly submerged or wetted thoroughly and then left to sit in a safe spot away from the house for several days. Depending on how deep the spikes are below the top of the wood, may be able to use a 1HP or larger skil saw to cut down to near the spike depth with a rip blade, when change to aluminum oxide fiberglass reinforced blade (a couple of bucks apiece, should be able to cut 20 or more large spikes or maybe 5-10 railroad size spikes per blade). Heavier duty - gasoline driven rental 14 or 20" abrasive cutoff saw - will make SHORT work of the spikes.

4) Alternative if concrete patio and looking at replacing it, but timbers are in decent shape - jackhammer the concrete out inside the timbers, leaving them in place including spikes, then just pour a new patio in the boxed opening.

Be sure to use safety gear whichever way you do it - flying metal or concrete with chisel or wedges, flying wood and molten metal with saws.

One other thing - not having said what the patio is made of - but if asphalt and wood are in decent structural shape, just a hot-sprayed asphalt sealer (not just plain emulsion, but true asphalt) sprayed on it might refurbish it quite well for $1/SF or so. If in area where it get hot enough to possibly cause asphalt melting in summer, could have it chip sealed - asphalt spray immediately covered with crushed sand to provide a new surface much like asphalt roadway. If cast concrete, just a 1/4" or so cementatious epoxy topping grout overlay for $2/SF range might also do the job - just need to be certain the current surface is well bush hammered or sand blasted or water cut or abrasive milled to provide a good bonding surface.

Couple of things on the patio - it is almost always a bad idea to tie the patio to the house foundation - put an asphaltic mastic preformed joint sealer on the foundation at the top of the slab level and an asphaltic fiberboard joint former below that to prevent bonding with the foundation but to provide a gap seal for dirt and water - and make sure there is a decent slope on the patio away from the house to avoid accumulating water at the foundation. If redoing the concrete the subgrade should also slope awaqy from the house to drain away any water that gets in under the patio - preferably at least 1/8" per foot slope (1%), 1/4" per foot (2%) better but that is a bit steep for areas with icing issues. And don't forget traction surface on the patio - usually a broom finish (with a stiff broom) rather than a smooth troweled finish to avoid slip-and-fall hazards, especially in areas with snow or ice or morning ground frosting.

Answered 4 years ago by LCD



This is Chris in Member Care. Thanks for your interest in Angie's List!

We'll be happy to help find top rated providers, but it doesn't look like you have a subscription to the List yet. You can join by visiting or by giving us a call. Our call center is available 8:00 am-9:00 pm weekdays and 8:00-5:00 pm ET on Saturdays.

Thanks for your question and we look forward to assisting you!

Answered 4 years ago by Member Services

Related Questions

Terms Of Use
Privacy Policy